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Routes in Ark Wall

Gopher Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost Ark T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Messiah S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Noah's Ark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oracle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shemtastic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stemtastic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Timbuk-2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toucan S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touche S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tougastan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tour Arete Syndrome S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touran S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tourista S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Camels, One Hump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Evil Deeds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Lefts Don't Make It Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Pots to Piss In T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Description

Partly shaded 70 foot cliff. Secluded. Shelving Rock is prone to loose/fragmented rock, so always wear a helmet. This area was established only a few years ago so you may encounter loose rock. We noted a few important holds were flexing on a couple different climbs.

Please upload some photos and draw routes on them if you have time. I didn't think to snap photos on my visit here and was surprised to see it had not been added to MP. The descriptions work well in finding things but nothing beats a photo with drawn in routes.

Getting There

Use the main Shelving Rock directions to get you near the lake. BEFORE the parking area described for the main Shelving Rock climbs, on the right is a parking area for hiking Shelving Rock Mountain. Park here. Take the hiker trail for 2 minutes to an intersection. At the intersection go forward [Northeast] on a climber's path which is well established (see Ben Thompson's photo). You reach the right side of the cliff [first climb will be Tourista] in about 15 minutes.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ark Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Touche
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 12
Touran
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Stemtastic
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Toucan
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Two Camels, One Hump
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Two Pots to Piss In
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Messiah
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Noah's Ark
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Oracle
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Two Evil Deeds
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Touche
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Touran
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
Stemtastic
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Toucan
 17
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Two Camels, One Hump
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Two Pots to Piss In
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Messiah
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Noah's Ark
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Oracle
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Two Evil Deeds
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Ark Wall »

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New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
The directions in Adirondack Rock for the Shelving Rock Mountain parking area are slightly off. From Hogtown parking lot (the 0.0 mile mark in their directions) it's actually 2.6 miles, not 2.4, which wouldn't matter except that there actually is another (wrong) parking lot at 2.4. The lot you want is on the right, 0.3 miles after crossing a bridge (at the Shelving Rock falls lot), which to us is a little far to be called "just after the bridge" as in the directions. I think maybe the parking lot closer to the bridge was added after the book was published? May 18, 2018
JHaas  
Yep. New (nice) parking area before the Shelving Rock Mountain trailhead. This has improved parking for the Ark Wall tremendously...and it is not nearly as buggy. The trailhead for climbing at Shelving Rock is still further down the road. May 18, 2018
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Thanks for the updates guys. Does the above description still work? Message me with needed revisions, or have an admin update. May 19, 2018
JHaas  
Hey Kevin. No change in the parking/trailhead for Ark Wall. Just an additional parking area that was build nearby.
Jeremy May 19, 2018

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