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Routes in Ark Wall

Gopher Wood T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lost Ark T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Messiah S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Noah's Ark S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oracle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shemtastic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stemtastic S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Timbuk-2 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Toucan S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Touche S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tougastan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tour Arete Syndrome S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Touran S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Tourista S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Two Camels, One Hump T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Evil Deeds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Lefts Don't Make It Right S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two Pots to Piss In T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: 2012 Vollkommer
Page Views: 334 total, 11/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Jun 21, 2015
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the short right facing corner, moving right to the arete. Climb the left side of the arete for 15 feet, then climb the arete to a stance. Pass the overhang on its right side to a stance under the roof, then a reachy move to the top.

Location

Left of the 50' tall overhanging arete

Protection

8 bolts.
Fixed anchor.

Photos

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crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
  5.10c
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
  5.10c
Super fun climb.. Don't be fooled by the misleading chalked up holds going left.. Stay near the arête! Start of the climb is not as hard as it looks if you are creative with you're body position.

Caution:
Make sure you are carful if following this route. The rope stretch at the bottom plus the slight swing will cause you to deck onto some sharp rocks. I saw it happen to a friend of mine. Not going to get you super hurt but she tore up her back skin pretty good.I recommend trying to get all the stretch out of the rope if you're going to top rope this. Sep 21, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Really cool arête pitch!

First move can be burly if you go straight up. You can go right on better holds but risk a pendulum into the corner.

Upper arête is awesome.

This climb, along with Oracle and Two Evil Deeds are "must do's" at Ark Wall. Jun 21, 2015