Aiguille Dibona Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on May 13, 2015|
|Admins:||Euan Cameron, Luc-514|
Cette extraordinaire aiguille, qui jaillit comme un cri au coeur d'un désert de pierres, est là pour faire rêver, image de folie, et pour être admirée durant la longue montée au refuge. Puis pour être gravie.
"This extraordinary needle, gushing like a cry in the middle of a desert of stones, is there to make a dream, a crazy image, and to be admired during the long climb to the refuge. Then to be climbed." - Gaston Rébuffat, Le massif des Écrins - Les 100 plus belles courses
Originally known as Pain de Sucre de Soreiller, the spire was renamed for the Dolomite guide Angelo Dibona, who completed the first ascent of the peak with Guido Mayer on 27 June 1913.
The steep, Eiffel tower shaped south face on this 3,130m (10,269) peak contains a number of sought after classic multi pitch routes.
The steep south face yields several popular routes:
- Voie des Savoyards the popular traditional classic. Left side of the south face for 14 pitches on gear, at around 5.10a.
- Voie Madier (south face direct) 14 pitches with a variety of climbing including the 5c obl "fissure Madier".
- South Face Classic around 14 pitches milking the weaknesses at 5c (5b obl).
- Visite Obligatoire a modern, somewhat sparsely bolted 5.10c. 12 pitches with a rack of quickdraws! Sustained with a gob of 6a.
The standard route, the Voie Normal, is approached from the west and climbs the North arête for two pitches (French grade 3). The Voie du Nain adds 6 pitches up to 4a and starts past the south face on the east side.
Behind the hut to the left are a variety of 3-5 pitch routes from 4+ to 6b.
An "arrow of uncertain equilibriums." Arnod Petit, Parois de Légende.
From the north summit, rappel twice to the north col then traverse on ledges to the west and down a worn and marked trail to the hut.
Where to stay
Le Plan du Lac (between Vénosc and Saint Christophe en Oisans and 10 km from Les Etages). 35 places.
Brigitte & Bernard TEILLER
Telephone: 04 76 80 23 99
La Bérarde (3 km past les Etages). 165 places
Telephone: 04 76 79 20 45
LE SOREILLER HUT
Season: mid June to mid September.
Hut keeper is Martine, a climber descended from the first ascender of La Meije. The hut has 92 places, solar showers, a folder with climbing beta and hit-or-miss cuisine.
Refuge Telephone: 04 76 79 08 32
5km to the east of Bourg dOisans, go south on the D530 past Vénosc to St-Cristophe-en-Oisans (climbing museum worth seeing!) then for another 8km to Les Etages. In another 3km at the end of the road is the small village of La Bérarde
Across the road from the small village, a trail to the hut leads off to the north. Take the trail for 2-3 hours and 1125 meters of elevation gain up endless switchbacks and a few creek crossings and arrive at the Soreiller hut. Reservations in summer recommended.
Days w Precip