Type: Trad, Alpine, 1350 ft (409 m), 14 pitches
FA: Andéol Madier and Maurice Fourastier - Sept 1, 1937
Page Views: 329 total · 15/month
Shared By: Ryan Williams on Aug 4, 2019
Admins: Euan Cameron, Luc-514

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A classic traditional route following the most obvious weakness up the South Face. This route was first done in 1937 and was the first ascent done on the now very popular South Face.

P1 - 3c - 55m - Scramble toward the obvious left leaning crack system and belay below the start of the "tunnel pitch"

P2 - 5a - 40m - Enter the obvious tunnel. Climb through it, don't be fooled by the bolts on the face to the left.

P3 - 5a - 40m - Climb straight up the corner past 1-2 pins, and then out left onto the face. Traverse left about 30 feet, then up to a bolted belay. 4 bolts on the slab?

P4 - 4c - 30m - Climb straight up, belay in a corner under a large yellow roof.

P5 - 5c - 42m - Continue up the large corner for 25m, then step right at an obvious break above an orange/red roof. Be careful not to exit right too early (not hard).











10 minutes from the Soreiller Hut. The route starts maybe 100+ feet to the right of the Visite Obligitoire slab and follows the large and obvious left leaning crack system that splits the south face. Scramble up towards the overhangs in the middle of the face, then head right to the base of the crack system. You're looking for the "tunnel pitch" which is P2 in the description above.


A lot of places for traditional protection with a few pins and bolts on each pitch. Take a single set of cams, single set of stoppers, and a #4 Camalot for the crux pitch.


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