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Swamp King Rock Climbing
Routes in 5. Swamp King
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Blank This TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crimp Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fo Shoa! TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Frog Spit TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Moat 'Fo TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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White Lightning TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wicked Whoa TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Elevation: | 494 ft |
| GPS: |
41.14552, -74.16878 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 4,783 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Sep 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Nice slab climbing in the 5.7 to 9+ range, on Top-Rope with a long static line.
Shady pleasant environment (when it's dry). Page 89 in the 2011 Crefeld guidebook 2nd edition. But ...
Small, not much more than 20 feet high, and (as of 2014) needs some cleaning. Go there when you're sure it's dry, otherwise the base would likely be "swampy".
Top of the less-than-vertical wall has a nice well-defined edge for setting up top-ropes, but not many Trad gear placements near that edge, so best to have a long static line (50 feet / 15 meters) for most of the routes.
Many potential holds have moss on them or nearby, so might want to bring a brush or other tools for cleaning -- but lots of fun interesting moves even as it is (in 2014).
Shady pleasant environment (when it's dry). Page 89 in the 2011 Crefeld guidebook 2nd edition. But ...
Small, not much more than 20 feet high, and (as of 2014) needs some cleaning. Go there when you're sure it's dry, otherwise the base would likely be "swampy".
Top of the less-than-vertical wall has a nice well-defined edge for setting up top-ropes, but not many Trad gear placements near that edge, so best to have a long static line (50 feet / 15 meters) for most of the routes.
Many potential holds have moss on them or nearby, so might want to bring a brush or other tools for cleaning -- but lots of fun interesting moves even as it is (in 2014).
Getting There
Driving from New York City or New Jersey or PA: Go to the giant interchange of routes NY Thruway 87, 287, and 17 near Suffern NY. Exit onto rt 17 North, which immediately goes into a traffic light. Turn sharp Right on rt 59 South for about 0.5 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.
Driving from NY state coming from the North: NY Thruway (I-87) south to exit 15A for rt 17 North + rt 59, Sloatsburg + Suffern. Exit to the right, go 0.1 mile curving right to reach a T intersection. Turn Right (NorthEast) and go about 0.2 mile to another T intersection. Turn Right (South) and go about 0.4 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.
Park by some 10-15 ft wide wire fence enclosures (sometimes called "the vents") and a green manhole cover, on the left (west) side of the road --
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1415 W74.1618)
This is about 100 yards before (south from) the left turn for Torne Brook Rd. If you reach the entrance for the waste management facility on the right, you've gone too far.
Walking - about +200 vertical feet uphill over 0.7 mile distance (+60m uphill over 1.1km):
From the parking, walk North 100 yards on Torne Valley Rd. Turn left (West) on Torne Brook Rd and walk 50 yards across new bridge over creek. Turn right (North) onto dirt road uphill and go 0.2 mile to an intersection. Turn sharp left on dirt road and go SW about 0.1 mile to another intersection. Take the right fork onto dirt road which later becomes a hiking trail (marked by white diamonds). Go about 0.25 mile first NW then W then NW -- at first open tree-less, past a high electric power tower, then into the woods, mostly gentle, continuing past another trail which turns off right.
Where the main trail goes uphill north (and reaches Basilisk Wall in another 100 yards) - (at GPS lat long ~ N41.1452 W74.1677) - turn off left onto a vague trail. Go about 100 yards gentle past various small cliffs and boulders. Swamp King wall is on the right -- about 22 feet (6.5 meters) high with a two-feet-thick tree lying fallen across its base.
GPS lat long ~ (N41.1455 W74.1688)
Driving from NY state coming from the North: NY Thruway (I-87) south to exit 15A for rt 17 North + rt 59, Sloatsburg + Suffern. Exit to the right, go 0.1 mile curving right to reach a T intersection. Turn Right (NorthEast) and go about 0.2 mile to another T intersection. Turn Right (South) and go about 0.4 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.
Park by some 10-15 ft wide wire fence enclosures (sometimes called "the vents") and a green manhole cover, on the left (west) side of the road --
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1415 W74.1618)
This is about 100 yards before (south from) the left turn for Torne Brook Rd. If you reach the entrance for the waste management facility on the right, you've gone too far.
Walking - about +200 vertical feet uphill over 0.7 mile distance (+60m uphill over 1.1km):
From the parking, walk North 100 yards on Torne Valley Rd. Turn left (West) on Torne Brook Rd and walk 50 yards across new bridge over creek. Turn right (North) onto dirt road uphill and go 0.2 mile to an intersection. Turn sharp left on dirt road and go SW about 0.1 mile to another intersection. Take the right fork onto dirt road which later becomes a hiking trail (marked by white diamonds). Go about 0.25 mile first NW then W then NW -- at first open tree-less, past a high electric power tower, then into the woods, mostly gentle, continuing past another trail which turns off right.
Where the main trail goes uphill north (and reaches Basilisk Wall in another 100 yards) - (at GPS lat long ~ N41.1452 W74.1677) - turn off left onto a vague trail. Go about 100 yards gentle past various small cliffs and boulders. Swamp King wall is on the right -- about 22 feet (6.5 meters) high with a two-feet-thick tree lying fallen across its base.
GPS lat long ~ (N41.1455 W74.1688)
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