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Routes in Jericho Cliff (Junkyard)

Cell phones are dangerous TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crossing Over T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eyes for You TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Menace to Society TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pass of Cirith Ungol, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route with the Fin..., The T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rumor Mill T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Summer Air TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 609 ft
GPS: 41.611, -73.069 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,052 total, 77/month
Shared By: JIncillo on Sep 5, 2014 with updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description

This shady crag lies in the southern portion of the Mattatcuck State Forest. It is approx. 60ft tall and is mostly a Schist-like rock. There are a number of moderate climbs from 5.7-5.10. This crag was included in the most recent CT guide book.There may be some potential for Trad, however much of the rock is soft and placements are tricky. Many of the routes could use a few bolts for a safe lead. While people obviously climb here, this crag does not receive much traffic and has some loose stuff so wear your helmets!

Getting There

The approach is 5 minutes from the Jericho trail head located on Echo lake road (See photos below. Note: trailhead is not the trail head at the parking lot). Approx. 1/4 mi up the hill from the trail head is a parking area on the same side of the road as the trail head and on the opposite side of the road is a dirt pull out for additional parking. The Jericho trail is marked by a blue sign and blue trail markers. Follow the Jericho trail as it goes directly across the top of the cliff. It is almost exactly 1000 ft from the trail head to the top of the cliff. There is a steep loose approach gully to the bottom on the climber's right side of the cliff (or left side looking down from the top). If you cross any access roads or come to the clearing for the power lines you have definitely missed it.

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Bill thanks for all the route info! I knew someone out there had it! Good suggestion about the name. I'll update the info. It would probably be helpful to have some consistency between mtn project and the published guide book. Jul 18, 2017
wivanoff
Northeast, USA
wivanoff   Northeast, USA
Since there's already a cliff named "Junkyard" in central Connecticut, a better name for this one might be "Jericho" - after the trail name and area.

I've heard this cliff called both but "Jericho" would agree with the name in "Rock Climbing Connecticut" Jul 14, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Sounds like someone improving the vista... doesn't really sound like a climber to me but good to make mention of it either way. Nov 5, 2014
This is a fantastic winter crag with lots of sunshine, the rock warms up quickly. This relatively small cliff has roughly 20-25 different lines that I have climbed, with lots of variations and some incredible leads. In 2008, someone cleared the top of this cliff of vegetation and brush. Please be respectful of State Land while climbing here. Nov 4, 2014
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
There is a telephone pole right next to the trailhead that has some spray paint on it . Last time i was there the trailhead was not maintained and was very hard to spot. I have parked on the grassy shoulder right on the main road across the street and a bit up hill without a problem. Oct 26, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
I've explored extensively in the northern portion of the forest and found the rock quality no so good... Awesome to see there's some good rock on the southern portion though it does seem limited. Sep 8, 2014
I'll edit the description of the approach to be more specific, but it is literally on the blue trail. Sep 6, 2014
mickteroo Otero
Serenity
mickteroo Otero   Serenity
Will you please mark the trail and location of the cliff on this map?
You could take a screen shot of it, then edit it in a Paint program
ct.gov/deep/lib/deep/statep…
Or at least provide some further description based on the map and I can edit it.

Thanks! Sep 6, 2014

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