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Routes in Secret Garden

Left way up cool looking rock S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Main corner line S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right way up cool looking rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thin flake S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Elevation: 939 ft
GPS: 40.602, 116.781 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Rajko Radovanovic on Jul 2, 2014 with updates
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is a small, but cool spot. I've read that it was developed in early 2013, though I do not know by whom. It is located up in the hills behind the town of Goukou, and is about a 15-20 minute approach from the climber's hostel. There is a well-established path to the area that takes about 10-15 min and is about 0.5 miles up hill.

The routes are mostly sport, though are are a couple lines that seem doable on gear. There are no established trad lines, but possibly a line or two that could be made. Most, if not all of the sport lines are not good for trad. We bolted most lines from ground up or after some sketchy climbing to access the top. The routes are also generally pretty short, about 15-25 meters, but the flip-side is that they are under the cover of trees and of the hill itself so you can climb in the shade for the majority of the day.

More coming, for now some pics and just a couple routes!

PLEASE NOTE:
As I do not know who developed this area and there is no info about it on the internet, I am just making up temporary names to call routes... If anyone has more info and can help me do the developers of this crag justice, please let me know!

Getting There

Climbing in BaiHe is mostly free (sometimes a random person will ask for money, just go to a different area and do not give money). But please support the amazing locals of BaiHe and have a meal, buy some drinks/food, or even stay a few nights.

Best to just ask the people in the village, or even better to ask people at the climber hostel. It is a brief hike along a trail. The trail head might be a bit tough to find on your own, but once you get find it it is really obvious to follow until it literally runs into a rock face...

Also, I believe my current coordinates on the map function might not be the most accurate. I will try and get more accurate coordinates during my next visit and a better idea of the exact location of this crag on the hill.

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JimmyJ
Englewood, Colorado
JimmyJ   Englewood, Colorado
Hi, I am one of a few people who developed this crag. I can give more info later, but I am posting some pictures of the lines there. Should be about 25 lines from 5.8 to 5.14ish. I also have info on FA's. Hopefully more to come. This is a must go to if you visit BaiHe





10,诞生, 5.11a 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路6个挂片;首攀者:吴强;开线者: 楊礎豪和Jack Anchor: two bolts, two mailons; 6 bolts, FA: Wu Qiang. Equipped by Xiao Hao and Jack. 11,流连/ l am loving it, 5.11c, 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路6个挂片;首攀者:吴强;开线者: Jim Jurchenko Anchor: two bolts, two mailons; 6 bolts, FA: Wu Qiang, equipped by Jim Jurchenko. 12,左右逢源, 5.10a, 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路7个挂片;首攀者:阿程儿;开线者:阿程儿和马强 Anchor: two bolts, two mailons; 7bolts, FA A Cheng, Equipped by Acheng, Ma Qiang, and Jim Jurchenko. 13,晚归/Come Home Late, 5.11c 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路6个挂片;首攀者:吴强;开线者:马强,小豪和Jack Anchor: two bolts, two mailons, 6 bolts, FA: Wu Qiang, equipped by Ma Qiang, 小豪and Jack. 14, 5.12c, 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路8个挂片;开线者:马强,Jim Jurchenko Anchor: two bolts, two mailons, 8 bolts, equipped by Jim Jurchenko FA Doug Robertson. 15, project 5.12? 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路6个挂片;开线者:楊礎豪, Benwar和Jack Anchor: two bolts, two mailons; 6 bolts, equipped by Xiao Hao, Benwar and Jack. 16, 左秋千/Left Swing, 5.10a 顶链:两个挂片,两个梅陇锁;线路5个挂片;首攀者:欧黑亮; 开线者:马强,阿程儿和欧黑亮 Anchor: two bolts, two mailons; 5 bolts? FA:欧黑亮. Equipped by A Cheng, Aurelien Lesluye and Ma Qiang.


















Nov 2, 2015

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