Home Cliff Rock Climbing
|GPS:||45.526, -75.969 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||6,655 total · 91/month|
|Shared By:||Jfaub on Jun 26, 2014|
- Home Cliff Centre Wall
- Twin Ribs Down Under, Eastern Block and The Left Twin
- Western Cwm West.
- *This page is a work in progress. I will add pictures and routes shortly**
Good selection of climbing on solid granite. Difficulty ranges from rediculously easy (5.1) to hard (5.12+). Most of the climbing here is traditional or mixed (gear and bolts). The cliff is home to many old-school trad routes and area classics like Piton Highway (5.7), Peggy (5.7+) Rupert Bear Goes Hiking (5.9) and The Original Route (5.10c). However, there are also harder sport routes like Direttissisma (5.11a), Joy of Life (5.11a) and some unnamed 5.12's.
The area is known for it's stiff grades ; many climbs were put up in the period between the 1950's and the 1980's. Keep that in mind. A notorious sandbag is Cotter Crack, which gets 5.10b, but many say the grade is more in the range of 5.11a/b (speculation, as I have not yet done it myself). Only one way to find out...
Approach : Exit the car and walk back towards the farm you just passed by. On the left side of the road, there will be a field with a trail splitting it. Follow the trail to an NCC sign. Go left at the sign. (Right goes to Farm Rock and other closed cliffs) Hike uphill for a few minutes, and you will be deposited near the Peggy area. (Approach is about 15 minutes and easy)
Days w Precip