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Areas in Home Cliff

Cotter Crack Buttress 1 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Main Corner 8 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Peggy Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 569 ft
GPS: 45.526, -75.969 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,646 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jfaub on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: Luc-514
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Description

  • *This page is a work in progress. I will add pictures and routes shortly**

Good selection of climbing on solid granite. Difficulty ranges from rediculously easy (5.1) to hard (5.12+). Most of the climbing here is traditional or mixed (gear and bolts). The cliff is home to many old-school trad routes and area classics like Piton Highway (5.7), Peggy (5.7+) Rupert Bear Goes Hiking (5.9) and The Original Route (5.10c). However, there are also harder sport routes like Direttissisma (5.11a), Joy of Life (5.11a) and some unnamed 5.12's.

The area is known for it's stiff grades ; many climbs were put up in the period between the 1950's and the 1980's. Keep that in mind. A notorious sandbag is Cotter Crack, which gets 5.10b, but many say the grade is more in the range of 5.11a/b (speculation, as I have not yet done it myself). Only one way to find out...
All routes east (climber's right) of Piton Highway are closed to climbing by the NCC. Clifftop access is restricted to the area between Main Corner and Peggy Details
NCC Gatineau Park restrictions Details

Getting There

From Ottawa, Make your way across the river to Gatineau, and then head west to eventually get on the 148 (this can be done by any number of variations). Follow the 148 until you start to see the escarpement (It will be obvious on a clear day). A short while after this, turn right onto Crégheur road. Follow the road (heads directly towards the escarpement) which takes a 90 degree turn to the left. After this turn, look to your right, you will see a small farm close to the road. Pass the farm. Very shortly after, the road bends around a grassy knoll. Behind this knoll and to the left, you will see a small pullout. Park here.

Approach : Exit the car and walk back towards the farm you just passed by. On the left side of the road, there will be a field with a trail splitting it. Follow the trail to an NCC sign. Go left at the sign. (Right goes to Farm Rock and other closed cliffs) Hike uphill for a few minutes, and you will be deposited near the Peggy area. (Approach is about 15 minutes and easy)

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