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Routes in Peggy Area

Piton Highway T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad
FA: E. Marshall, D. Wotherspoon - 1968
Page Views: 96 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jfaub on Jun 27, 2014
Admins: Luc-514

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NCC Gatineau Park restrictions Details

Description

A classic. Much, much better climbing than it looks like from below. Old-school funky trad climbing. Do it!

Scramble up to a small sloping ledge on jugs. (It may be wise for your belayer to anchor in, as the stance is awkward.) Place some gear to prevent yourself from falling and dragging down your belayer. Make some moves above a ledge (don't fall), find jugs, and fire in some small cams into what seems to be piton scars. Climb up to a square block, and pass it on the right on jugs (exposed). Once on top of the block, step left into a small corner, place gear and fire the crux. Clip a bolt, then a fixed pin to easier terrain. Clip another bolt (optional), then make a few moves to a decent ledge. From here, clip a weirdly placed pin, or clip a bolt higher up (ledgefall potential). Next, figure out how to get to the bolted anchors. (Straight up or right, you decide...) Exposed finish!

Location

2 minutes to the right of the Main Corner area, past multiple bolt lines.

Protection

Standard rack. Some small cams, one larger (2''-2.5'') piece for the bottom. Draws to clip the pins/bolts. Bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Anchors at the top in which a single 60 M works ... optional direct upwards start at beginning ( little harder I think). A very fun route with great scenic Gatineau Park views while climbing. Apr 17, 2017