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Mount Broderick Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in E. Mount Broderick

L › R R › L A › Z

	Runaway Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
	Thugz Mansion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
	Unemployment Line T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Voodoo Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2

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Elevation:	6,663 ft	2,031 m
GPS:	37.73344, -119.53489 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	12,262 total · 87/month
Shared By:	Shaun Reed on Jun 26, 2014
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Access Issue: Closure includes the entire southeast face of Mt. Broderick opposite Liberty Capuntil July 15, 201. Details

The following areas are identified as cliffs closed to visitor use, including climbing activities, beginning March 1, 2018 and remaining in effect until July 15, 2018, or until further notice:

Mt. Broderick – West of Liberty Cap. Closure includes the entire southeast face of Mt. Broderick opposite Liberty Cap.

Description

Mount Broderick is located right next to Liberty Cap, off of the "Mist" Trail. The prominent face primarily faces south, providing sunny climbing all day. Most routes are aid with a couple free routes thrown in.

Getting There

Approach as for Liberty Cap. About 200 - 300 ft past the bridge above Vernal Falls, veer left off the "Mist" Trail down a drainage, then across to the giant slabs that lead up to Mount Broderick, pulling a couple class 4 moves getting up on the slabs. Continue up the slabs then into the woods, staying left to access the base of the south face.

To descend from the top of Mount Broderick, head North toward the stunning South Face of Half Dome, where a ramp can be found winding around toward the backside of Broderick. Follow the ramp around and down to a cool dyke that cuts horizontally across a steep slab. Walk/scramble across the dyke then down to the main backside slabs of Broderick. Walk straight down the main slabs until the Snake Dyke trail. Follow the Snake Dyke trail to the right, down into a gully which becomes the Hanging Valley between Broderick and Liberty Cap. The Hanging Valley eventually rejoins the Mist Trail, or it's possible at some point to scramble up a dirty weakness toward Broderick to access the woods above the approach slabs.