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Routes in Mount Broderick

Runaway Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Thugz Mansion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Unemployment Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Voodoo Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Elevation: 6,671 ft
GPS: 37.733, -119.535 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,309 total, 102/month
Shared By: Shaun Reed on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Mount Broderick is located right next to Liberty Cap, off of the "Mist" Trail. The prominent face primarily faces south, providing sunny climbing all day. Most routes are aid with a couple free routes thrown in.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

Approach as for Liberty Cap. About 200 - 300 ft past the bridge above Vernal Falls, veer left off the "Mist" Trail down a drainage, then across to the giant slabs that lead up to Mount Broderick, pulling a couple class 4 moves getting up on the slabs. Continue up the slabs then into the woods, staying left to access the base of the south face.

To descend from the top of Mount Broderick, head North toward the stunning South Face of Half Dome, where a ramp can be found winding around toward the backside of Broderick. Follow the ramp around and down to a cool dyke that cuts horizontally across a steep slab. Walk/scramble across the dyke then down to the main backside slabs of Broderick. Walk straight down the main slabs until the Snake Dyke trail. Follow the Snake Dyke trail to the right, down into a gully which becomes the Hanging Valley between Broderick and Liberty Cap. The Hanging Valley eventually rejoins the Mist Trail, or it's possible at some point to scramble up a dirty weakness toward Broderick to access the woods above the approach slabs.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Broderick

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unemployment Line
Trad 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Unemployment Line 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 8 pitches
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