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Routes in Mount Broderick

Runaway Train T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+
Thugz Mansion T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A2
Unemployment Line T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Voodoo Child T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA: 1982 - Alen Bartlett, Jim May, Steve Gerbeding FFA: 2014 - Shaun Reed, Scotty Nelson
Page Views: 2,545 total, 61/month
Shared By: Shaun Reed on Jun 26, 2014
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

The meat of the route is a 450' aesthetic flake system on the otherwise blank right side South Face. The grades listed below are my best guess and are not meant to sandbag anyone. I believe these are the honest grades that consensus will reach as the route sees more traffic.

Pitch 1 - 5.10 - 160 feet

Start up a thin dihedral with a bush at the start, then out or around a small A-frame roof to another dihedral with thin to good fingers to a 2 bolt belay (only bolted belay on the climb).

Pitch 2 - 5.11+, 150 feet - 4 bolts

Traverse up and right to a bolt then continues right to a crumbly corner (5.7), then to a good ledge and three bolts (crux) traversing to the right to a ledge at the base of a dihedral. Belay takes hand-size gear.

Pitch 3 - 5.11+, 70 feet

Head straight up the dihedral to the start of the flake system, then undercling to the left into a radical sustained undercling fingerlock traverse to a ledge with a tree. Belay takes hand-size gear and a #4 BD.

Pitch 4 - 5.11+, 90 feet

Undercling/jam out the awkward flake to pumpy hand jams then powerful liebacking passed 4 fixed nuts. Belay at a stance as the flake turns lower angle, or better yet, combine with Pitch 5. Belay takes finger- and thin hand-size gear.

Pitch 5 - 5.11, 50 feet

Continue up the flake to a thin crack crux through a short roof. Belay on a good sloping ledge. Belay takes hand-size gear.

Pitch 6 - 12-, 130 feet

Jam/lieback up the wide slightly expando pancake flake (5.9) saving a #4 BD for the belay. After a stance, head up the stellar big fingers to thin hands corner (5.11-) to another stance. Fire up good fingers to a thought-provoking undercling flake (crux) to a "thank God" slam dunk jug. Cruise up to a good ledge. Belay takes #3 and bomber #4 BD cams.

Pitch 7 - 5.10, 180 feet

Scramble up and right through a bush, then straight up a short awkward dihedral (5.10), then 3rd class through some trees straight up to the base of a thin corner. Belay at one of the trees.

Pitch 8 - 5.9 or 5.6, 160 feet

Climb up the corner to a ledge and a bush, then choose your own adventure left to the original 5.9 lieback, or right through 5.6 fingers then straight up through ever widening low-angle cracks to the summit ledge. Belay at a big tree.

Location

The route is on the right side of the South Face on Mount Broderick and can be seen from the top of Vernal Falls. For the approach and descent, see the area overview for Mount Broderick.

Protection

Rack: RP's, (3 ea.) finger and hand sizes, (1) #4 BD cam
Erik Griffith
Yosemite National Park, CA
Erik Griffith   Yosemite National Park, CA
Some approach beta:

For high water spring time:

take the mist trail past vernal falls until you cross a foot bridge that takes you over the water. Take the left trail that starts to make its way toward liberty cap and Broderick. Look for a faint "path" off of the wall established trail (it's not a climbers trail by any means) that takes you through the forest. If you start to trend away from Broderick on the main trail you've gone too far. After about 5min following the path you'll get cliffed out by a small rock band. Trend left, following the base of the rock band until it leads to a small ramp that accesses the slab above you.

For low water fall time:
Boulder hop across the river to the prominent wide open slabs across the river from the vernal observation deck.

From the open slabs:

Follow the slabs up towards Broderick looking for carrins that lead you to a quick little 4th class boulder lie back move that pops up ontop of the next ledge/ terrace. From the top of the 4th class boulder move, there will be carrins bringing you up to the next ramp system. You're in and out of the trees quite a bit. You'll be walking in more of a wide open area when you see the carrins that direct you into the forest. Stay on them. Eventually they'll bring you to another forested cliff band with an overhanging kind of cave. Duck your head a little and trend up with the wall to your left. Eventually it will turn into a very small connecting ramp that brings you to the real terrace of where the route starts.
After you've connected with the terrace aboce you, make your way through bushes and bullshit and head up toward the base of the wall.

My partner and I marked carrins so people could find this. If you miss it you can go up the original way that the topo shows which is even more annoying 4th and 5th class moves up ledges and through manzanita.

Also: DO NOT CARRY PACKS TO THE BASE, the descent brings through the hanging valley below the main terrace. If you leave anything at the base, you will have to reverse the above information. Oct 12, 2017
Shaun Reed
Boulder, CO
 
Shaun Reed   Boulder, CO
 
You should be able to pull on gear through the crux with small cams in the undercling flake section. After the jug on top of the flake, there may be some mandatory free stuff, but the difficulty drops significantly. Dec 28, 2016
Erik Griffith
Yosemite National Park, CA
Erik Griffith   Yosemite National Park, CA
Does anyone know if you can pull through the crux. I'd love to hop on this thing, but I'd hate to possibly whip at the crux and have to leave gear because I'm too wimpy to send. Looks awesome tho! Psyched to check outhe a free route on Mt Broderick. Dec 15, 2016
Was unaware that Mt. Broderick was subject to Falcon Closures. The line has some loose rock but other than that the climbing is amazing, be sure to get on it as soon as the Falcon closure is lifted! May 2, 2016
Great route! Pitch 3-6 are stellar! On pitch 2, more holds on the 11c traverse broke off in addition to what already had broken off (see Vitaly's supertopo trip report). Not sure how hard an 11c face traverse is supposed to be, but it's currently hard (but doable). Be careful on the 5.9 lieback at the beginning of p6; a part of that paper-thin flake came right off. Also, be sure to get some solid pro before pulling the crux on p6; part of the crack is flared and if you're not careful, the gear will pop straight out. But except for some questionable rock (and the ants at the p3 belay tree), this route is spectacular and has an awesome location. The underclingathon on p3 is my favorite! May 2, 2016
Shaun Reed
Boulder, CO
 
Shaun Reed   Boulder, CO
 
youtube.com/watch?v=Mrk6ui5…

Cedar Wright shot some great footage of the FFA for The North Face! Jun 27, 2014