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[Redacted]
Routes in [Redacted]
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Barking Baritones S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Feeling Dolomighty S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Feeling Groovey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gateway to the Vertical World S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Limestone Cowboy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mandate, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Paradigm Shift S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Quantum Utensils S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spirit in the Sky S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Stinger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Elevation: | 701 ft | 214 m |
| GPS: |
45.00592, -81.22596 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 6,733 total · 53/month | |
| Shared By: | Matt Looby on Jun 10, 2014 | |
| Admins: | Dave Rone |
Access Issue: From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated: Climbing access not formally permitted, but informally accepted. Tread lightly."
Details
From the OAC website, climbing at Lion's Head is "Tolerated as a non-conforming use of the park. Highly sensitive area. Strive for minimal impact and low profile. All fixed protection to be camouflaged. Do not disturb the cottagers. Approach via Bruce Trail entrance.
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."
Good mix of sport and trad, starting at higher grades mostly 5.10 and above. Some routes have anchors. Some routes start from ground, others from hanging belay. Approach is from top; rap in. Extremely complex the first visit."
Description
This area has some good 11s and 12s and are conveniently located at the 4th class gulley descent to the bottom of the cliff.
Getting There
Approximately 650 feet past (east of) the Latvian Ledge area, there will be a faint path leading to the left that starts to descend near the cliff line. Follow this through some trees to find the path to the base of the cliff. This path requires some down climbing and uses several fixed hand ropes along the way. This is the only recommended descent to the bottom of the cliff without rappelling. You will be under Limestone Cowboy when you reach the bottom of the cliff.
Classic Climbing Routes at [Redacted]
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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