Elevation: 2,302 ft
GPS: 42.162, -122.607 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,923 total · 123/month
Shared By: TomD on Jun 3, 2014 with updates from Southwest Oregon Climbers Coalition
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Description

Emigrant Lake climbing is is accessible year round, except part of Aqua Wall that is submerged when water levels are high. The crag sees sun for the majority of the day making it nice to take a swim in the lake. Crowds are minimal, but there are occasionally classes that take up the majority of the upper climbs.

Routes range from mostly moderate climbs, under 10a, but there are about one of each grade through 12c. Almost all the climbs can be easily top-roped or lead, mostly sport a few trad.

The cost per day is $4 paid into the Iron Ranger - aka deposit box. Bring exact change.

Emigrant Lake County Park

Getting There

Located at the north end of Emigrant Lake. Can be accessed through main park entrance. Drive past the camping area and boat launches to the back of the RV camping area where there is a gravel turn out by an outhouse. Park here and walk down the trail to the East. Stay on trail for a 10 minute hike there will be a climber trail to the right and you can see Poison Oak Wall above. Continue on trail for Ren and Aqua wall.

Can also be accessed via a boat by anchoring in the cove next to the obvious wall at the northern end of the lake.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emigrant Lake

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Mr. Anderson
Sport, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Bug Off
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mr. Anderson Poison Oak Wall
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport, TR
Bug Off Poison Oak Wall
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
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Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
As convenient as this area is, given its close proximity to Ashland, my personal experience was that you'd be better off making the drive to Rattlesnake. Poison oak is rampant along the approach and at the base of the walls. Hopefully the worst of it will be dealt with by SWOC, but otherwise bring Tecnu and long pants/shirt. The Aqua Wall is inaccessible for much of the year due to water level - I assume it's low enough to allow climbing in the summer. The Ren Wall is a popular nesting site for various birds in the spring. It's pretty nerve-wracking to have a squawking raven flying around you while leading. We also encountered a goose and a barn owl.

It is a great site for introducing climbers to the sport, but the poison oak really detracts from the otherwise beautiful, convenient setting. The leaves are the worst, and these fall off in the winter, making it less of a hazard during this time of year. Apr 16, 2018
gso Orton
Roseburg, OR
gso Orton   Roseburg, OR
"you could cause it to abandon its nest which is technically a violation of the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, thus a federal crime"
Nate, There appears to be some confusion here between protection under the Endangered Species Act (ESA) and the MBTA.
This is a common error that has created a bit of an entrenched myth.
While the ESA protects against "incidental take" the MBTA does not.
The latter only applies protection against willful killing or removal without a permit. Refer to the following decisions:

US District Court of Appeal
1991. Seattle Audubon Society, et al., v. John L. Evans, et al. and Washington Contract Loggers Association, et al., Intervenors.
No. C89-160 WD. United States District Court, W.D. Washington, at Seattle. May 23, 1991.
law.justia.com/cases/federa…
1996. Andy Mahler, Plaintiff, v. US Forest Service; James E. Denoncour, District Ranger, Tell City District, Hoosier National
Forest; Floyd Marita, Regional Forester, Eastern Region; Jack Ward Thomas, Chief, Defendants. No. NA 95-0008-C H/H.
United States District Court, S.D. Indiana, New Albany Division. May 7, 1996. Order Denying Motion to Alter or Amend
June 7, 1996. law.justia.com/cases/federa…
1997. NEWTON COUNTY WILDLIFE ASSOCIATION;  Sierra Club;  Kent Bonar;  Herb Culver;  Howard Kuff;  Tom McKinney;  
Jerry Williams, Plaintiffs-Appellants, v. UNITED STATES FOREST SERVICE;  George Rogers;  Gregory A. Hatfield; Robert
C. Joslin;  Lynn C. Neff, Defendants-Appellees, Arkansas Forestry Association, et al., Intervenors-Appellees.Nos. 96-
1994, 96-3463. Decided: May 06, 1997. caselaw.findlaw.com/us-8th-… May 3, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Huh... then I wonder how can the MBTA be cited to close climbing areas for raptor nesting? May 4, 2018