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Emigrant Lake
Oregon
> Southwest Oregon
Description
Emigrant Lake -the Tuolumne Meadows of Southern Oregon- offers climbing that is accessible year round, except part of Aqua Wall that is submerged when water levels are high. Tommy Caldwell and partner Kevin Jorgensen just recently sent the once thought to be impossible Aqua-Weenie. The success garnered much media attention. Tommy said it was one of the most wildly exposed routes he had ever touched, even rivalling that of the dawn wall. The crag sees sun for the majority of the day making it nice to take a swim in the lake. Crowds are minimal, but there are occasionally classes that take up the majority of the upper climbs.
Routes range from mostly moderate climbs, under 10a, but there are about one of each grade through 12c. Almost all the climbs can be easily top-roped or lead, mostly sport a few trad.
The cost per day is $4 paid into the Iron Ranger - aka deposit box. Bring exact change.
Emigrant Lake County Park
Getting There
Located at the north end of Emigrant Lake. Can be accessed through main park entrance. Drive past the camping area and boat launches to park in the dirt lot on the left near the cement dam, just before the RV park. Then walk to the back of the RV park (stay left on the paved road) until there is a gravel turn out with a trail heading along the lake. (You can drop off gear at this spot and then park in the first dirt lot, but RV camp hosts WILL ticket you for parking right at the trailhead.)
Walk down the trail to the east. Stay on trail for a 10 minute hike, head up the hill at the end of the quarry and take a right at the top of that small hill. There will be a climber trail to the right and you can see Poison Oak Wall above. Continue on trail for Ren and Aqua wall.
Can also be accessed via a boat by anchoring in the cove next to the obvious wall at the northern end of the lake.
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It is a great site for introducing climbers to the sport, but the poison oak really detracts from the otherwise beautiful, convenient setting. The leaves are the worst, and these fall off in the winter, making it less of a hazard during this time of year. Apr 16, 2018
Roseburg, OR
Nate, There appears to be some confusion here between protection under the Endangered Species Act (ESA) and the MBTA.
This is a common error that has created a bit of an entrenched myth.
While the ESA protects against "incidental take" the MBTA does not.
The latter only applies protection against willful killing or removal without a permit. Refer to the following decisions:
US District Court of Appeal
1991. Seattle Audubon Society, et al., v. John L. Evans, et al. and Washington Contract Loggers Association, et al., Intervenors.
No. C89-160 WD. United States District Court, W.D. Washington, at Seattle. May 23, 1991.
law.justia.com/cases/federa…
1996. Andy Mahler, Plaintiff, v. US Forest Service; James E. Denoncour, District Ranger, Tell City District, Hoosier National
Forest; Floyd Marita, Regional Forester, Eastern Region; Jack Ward Thomas, Chief, Defendants. No. NA 95-0008-C H/H.
United States District Court, S.D. Indiana, New Albany Division. May 7, 1996. Order Denying Motion to Alter or Amend
June 7, 1996. law.justia.com/cases/federa…
1997. NEWTON COUNTY WILDLIFE ASSOCIATION; Sierra Club; Kent Bonar; Herb Culver; Howard Kuff; Tom McKinney;
Jerry Williams, Plaintiffs-Appellants, v. UNITED STATES FOREST SERVICE; George Rogers; Gregory A. Hatfield; Robert
C. Joslin; Lynn C. Neff, Defendants-Appellees, Arkansas Forestry Association, et al., Intervenors-Appellees.Nos. 96-
1994, 96-3463. Decided: May 06, 1997. caselaw.findlaw.com/us-8th-… May 3, 2018
Overall, a really nice little crag. Generally solid rock and fun climbing. We found the poison oak easily avoidable, especially by PNW standards. Between that and the heat though, great motivation to jump in the lake afterward. Jun 17, 2019
Portland, OR