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Eight-Mile Buttress, Middle Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Middle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Hello Kitty T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stump Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	3,200 ft	975 m
GPS:	47.55565, -120.76135 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	10,466 total · 81/month
Shared By:	littleman on May 14, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.

A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.

In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.

Description

South east exposure with mostly sunny aspect all day.

Getting There

Park just west of 8 mile campground and look for the trail on the north side. Hike uphill staying left of JY crag and once you hit lower eight-mile buttress following a path to the right that winds uphill. There is a 150ft steep rock cluster between the top of the lower and middle eight mile, stay right of that on a path with some minimal scrambling to get to the base of middle 8-mile. steep approach, 30-45 minutes. Alternatively, just 100ft above the end of the route there is a low angle gully going up the 150ft steep rock cluster that is 4th class but will get you to the base of the route without shoes full of sand.

To descend, from the top, continue uphill a little ways until you see a worn path wrapping climbers left towards the gully, follow that and hike down the gully for a ways until you see the obvious top of lower-eight mile and a small scramble skieers left out of the gully onto the top of lower eight mile. Hike back to the trail you came up on and descend down to the road.

Approaching middle 8 mile buttress is best if climbing one of the routes on lower 8 mile buttress.