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Stump Route
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 46
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Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Middle
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Hello Kitty T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stump Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,957 total · 72/month |
| Shared By: | Casey Brown on May 31, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Pretty varied, yet great climbing with an alpine feel for being "near" the road.
Pitch 1: Start left of the roof (pictured) going up interesting blocks. Follow the obvious route up to the tree belay (~35m).
Pitch 2: Continue in the same direction of travel. Make your way through the branches of the tree to easy, ledgey slab leading a short way to some bolts (visible from leaving the tree). (~25m)
Pitch 3: Go right from the bolts. I'd suggest staying low on the ledges. We went high to start and it made for a spicy traverse with a possible ledge fall if making the big move on the friction section. This felt like an awesome section full of very nice knobs and varied climbing. Gear belay somewhere around the next tree.
It's definitely possible to link the third and fourth pitches, but rope drag might make it a bit interesting.
Pitch 3.5/4: Followed the right face up to the sandy top below the summit of the Buttress. Looked like the left from the belay would be really fun, but it wasn't as protectable.
Pitch 1: Start left of the roof (pictured) going up interesting blocks. Follow the obvious route up to the tree belay (~35m).
Pitch 2: Continue in the same direction of travel. Make your way through the branches of the tree to easy, ledgey slab leading a short way to some bolts (visible from leaving the tree). (~25m)
Pitch 3: Go right from the bolts. I'd suggest staying low on the ledges. We went high to start and it made for a spicy traverse with a possible ledge fall if making the big move on the friction section. This felt like an awesome section full of very nice knobs and varied climbing. Gear belay somewhere around the next tree.
It's definitely possible to link the third and fourth pitches, but rope drag might make it a bit interesting.
Pitch 3.5/4: Followed the right face up to the sandy top below the summit of the Buttress. Looked like the left from the belay would be really fun, but it wasn't as protectable.
Location
Approach: The Eight Mile Buttresses and trails are right across from Eight Mile campground. You can see the buttresses from the camp to get your bearings.
Route best approached from the top of the Lower Buttress after doing the Tree Route. As described in the guide and elsewhere on MP, it makes for an adventurous day!
Head right from the top of Lower Eight Mile Buttress to the next large buttress (roughly 15 minutes uphill). The Stump Route begins on the far left of the Middle Buttress.
Descent: This was the tricky part. There was a good tree at the top with a sling and rap rings, but we didn't know the climbs well enough to take it. Probably faster and safer to rap from here but we had not idea and only a single rope. Ended up going for an adventurous scramble down the climber's left gully by following around the side of the buttress.
Head down to the Lower Buttress and exit the gully by going up the narrow chute and traversing the top of Lower. Find a path on climber's right and take it on its wandering way down.
Descent time: ~1.5-2.5 hr.
Route best approached from the top of the Lower Buttress after doing the Tree Route. As described in the guide and elsewhere on MP, it makes for an adventurous day!
Head right from the top of Lower Eight Mile Buttress to the next large buttress (roughly 15 minutes uphill). The Stump Route begins on the far left of the Middle Buttress.
Descent: This was the tricky part. There was a good tree at the top with a sling and rap rings, but we didn't know the climbs well enough to take it. Probably faster and safer to rap from here but we had not idea and only a single rope. Ended up going for an adventurous scramble down the climber's left gully by following around the side of the buttress.
Head down to the Lower Buttress and exit the gully by going up the narrow chute and traversing the top of Lower. Find a path on climber's right and take it on its wandering way down.
Descent time: ~1.5-2.5 hr.
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