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Routes in Eight-Mile Buttress, Middle

Hello Kitty T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stump Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,258 total, 68/month
Shared By: Casey Brown on May 31, 2016 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pretty varied, yet great climbing with an alpine feel for being "near" the road.



Pitch 1: Start left of the roof (pictured) going up interesting blocks. Follow the obvious route up to the tree belay (~35m).

Pitch 2: Continue in the same direction of travel. Make your way through the branches of the tree to easy, ledgey slab leading a short way to some bolts (visible from leaving the tree). (~25m)

Pitch 3: Go right from the bolts. I'd suggest staying low on the ledges. We went high to start and it made for a spicy traverse with a possible ledge fall if making the big move on the friction section. This felt like an awesome section full of very nice knobs and varied climbing. Gear belay somewhere around the next tree.

It's definitely possible to link the third and fourth pitches, but rope drag might make it a bit interesting.

Pitch 3.5/4: Followed the right face up to the sandy top below the summit of the Buttress. Looked like the left from the belay would be really fun, but it wasn't as protectable.

Location

Approach: The Eight Mile Buttresses and trails are right across from Eight Mile campground. You can see the buttresses from the camp to get your bearings.

Route best approached from the top of the Lower Buttress after doing the Tree Route. As described in the guide and elsewhere on MP, it makes for an adventurous day!

Head right from the top of Lower Eight Mile Buttress to the next large buttress (roughly 15 minutes uphill). The Stump Route begins on the far left of the Middle Buttress.

Descent: This was the tricky part. There was a good tree at the top with a sling and rap rings, but we didn't know the climbs well enough to take it. Probably faster and safer to rap from here but we had not idea and only a single rope. Ended up going for an adventurous scramble down the climber's left gully by following around the side of the buttress.

Head down to the Lower Buttress and exit the gully by going up the narrow chute and traversing the top of Lower. Find a path on climber's right and take it on its wandering way down.

Descent time: ~1.5-2.5 hr.

Protection

A full rack ideal due to the varied climbing. Lots of single and 2-3 double length slings.

Photos

Alton R.
Boulder, Co
 
Alton R.   Boulder, Co
 
The walk off from the top is SUPER simple. From the top of the route, walk
"up" a few more little slabs of rock for a short distance, generally trending to climbers right. At a certain point, where it feels obvious to "go have a look" over to the right, you'll be able to either find cairns or simply follow your intuition down into the gully. Not difficult by any means, just a tad loose. May 27, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
Don't get confused by the bolt line on P2/3 which heads up left, those bolts up on the slab are for Hello Kitty. Keep trending right.

This is a good link up after tree route if you want to practice with your partner for alpine routes in the cascades, very similar to the mid grade terrain of many routes. Both routes are great to work on rope management for simul climbing if that's your grade, easier to create drag than on R&D.

We descended by going up high, then taking the gully skier left. It wasn't the worst I've done, but with pine needles and sand it was more sketchy than snow creek wall. Jul 11, 2016
Casey Brown
Seattle, WA
 
Casey Brown   Seattle, WA
 
Did it on Memorial Day 2016 and nobody else was on it. Definitely recommend Tree to Stump Routes. Full sun all day. Really fun climb, especially on pitch 3. May 31, 2016