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Wait of the World, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3

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Elevation:	5,260 ft	1,603 m
GPS:	38.71781, -109.27593 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,808 total · 29/month
Shared By:	Steve Bartlett on Jan 27, 2014 · Updates
Admins:	slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

This is the enormous rib that defines the right (east) side of the Mystery Towers. It's huge, with a bulging, beautiful, nearly blank 700-foot south face and shorter north face. There are at least three separate summits. First, a main, bigger one, then a funny hat-like summit further along the ridge and a third, shorter but more spindly pinnacle at the sharp final arete. There's two routes on the whole massive formation, likely both unrepeated. One, Wait of the World, takes the sunny south face to the main summit. The second route, Wondermonger, by Tpny Wilson and Russell Hooper is a bit harder and a bit shorter. It's not clear if both routes goes to the same summit.

Getting There

1. The usual approach for the Mystery Towers works. It's possible to scramble directly up the steep gully right to the base of the south face. Or, from the Gothic Nightmare, contour across higher. A more scenic approach is to slog up the steep ridge that towers over the east side of the normal approach gully and keep wandering along the ridge-top to the same spot. Nice views this way.