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Routes in The Atlas

Wait of the World, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Steve Bartlett, Chip Wilson, spring 1995
Page Views: 939 total, 20/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jan 27, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start near the right (east) end of the expansive south face, on a rib just left of a large, deep hollow. Look for two bolts to start.
1. From the bolts head up and left to a nice crack on the arete. Work up this. Ease past a closet-size, barely-attached block with care. Thinner nailing ends at a 3-bolt belay (A3, 80').
2. Thin seams lead up and right to a bold ladder with occasional hooking. End at a nice ledge (A3, 80').
3. Climb a flake system at the left end of the ledge, past one bolt, to a shallow dihedral. Up this to a bolted belay under a triangular roof (A2+, 80').
4. Over the roof to a splitter, one-inch crack. Romp up this to a bolted, hanging belay (A2, 120').
5. Move up and left into an easy dihedral to a bolt. Tension left to a shallow groove, from which hooking on broken crockery gets one over the caprock to, finally, a big comfy ledge (A2+, 80').
6. Walk the belay 30 feet right (to a 3-bolt rap station) then scamper up a 5.8 chimney to the summit.

The bolt on pitch 3 was where the decision to rope-solo a new route in such a remote location in February/March began to seem not such a great idea and I retreated, eventually returning with a partner. Still bugs me, placing that bolt, there's a placement there.

Location

This is on the south side of the formation. The route goes to the large, main summit. There's still a drop off that prevent easy (non-5th class) access from above. Tony Wilson and Russell Hooper added another route up the north side but I'm not sure if his route goes to the same summit or to a different pinnacle further west.

Protection

The whole nine yards. Bunch of beaks all the way to largest cams. Include a selection of hooks. Also include a bunch (12? that many?) standard angles for pitch 4 (the crack is kinda too choked with mud for cams to work without a struggle).
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
 
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
 
Excellent! Was wondering when some more stuff was going to be posted about the routes back here..... Feb 10, 2014