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Elevation: 5,912 ft 1,802 m
GPS: 46.75594, -121.77918
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Shared By: Bruce Lacroix on Dec 4, 2013
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Description Suggest change

The Tatoosh Range lies almost completely within Mount Rainier N.P.
There are more than a dozen peaks around 6k in elevation. The most technical of the peaks is Unicorn which is low 5th class, with several routes. There are a several peaks that require 3rd or 4th class scrambling to reach the summit.

Peaks in the Tatoosh Range include:

Unicorn Peak: 6,971 ft
Manatee Mountain 6,524 ft
Boundary: 6,780 ft
The Castle: 6,640 ft
Pinnacle: 6,562 ft
Foss: 6,524 ft
Stevens: 6,510 ft
Plummer: 6,370 ft
Tatoosh Peak: 6,310 ft
Wahpenayo: 6,231 ft
Lane: 6,012 ft
Denman: 6,006 ft
Chutla: 6,000 ft
Eagle Peak: 5,958 ft

There are three trails leading into the range. The Eagle Peak trail in the West. The Pinnacle Peak trail in the middle of the range. And, the Snow Lakes trail in the East.

A popular route is the traverse of most or all of the Tatoosh Range, in 2-3 days.
For more info., see "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" vol. 1 and 2

Getting There Suggest change

After entering Mt. Rainier N.P., head to Longmire for the Eagle Peak trailhead.

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Tatoosh Range Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Tatoosh Range

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2 M2 Steep Snow
 18
● The Zipper
Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Lane Peak
AI1-2 Mod. Snow
 11
● Lover's Lane
Ice, Snow, Alpine
Lane Peak
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b R
 15
● Southwest Scramble
Trad, Alpine
Pinnacle Peak
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow
 4
● Open Book
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Unicorn Peak
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow
 17
● Classic Route
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Unicorn Peak
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 13
● Southeast Face
Trad, Alpine
Castle
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 8
● East Ridge
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Pinnacle Peak
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow
 6
● The Roof
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Unicorn Peak
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Zipper Lane Peak
 18
WI2 M2 Steep Snow Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
● Lover's Lane Lane Peak
 11
AI1-2 Mod. Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
● Southwest Scramble Pinnacle Peak
 15
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b R Trad, Alpine
● Open Book Unicorn Peak
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
● Classic Route Unicorn Peak
 17
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
● Southeast Face Castle
 13
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
● East Ridge Pinnacle Peak
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● The Roof Unicorn Peak
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Tatoosh Range »

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Photos

Castle, Pinnacle, and Plummer Peaks are in center of photo. Photo taken from Muir snowfield.
Castle, Pinnacle, and Plummer Peaks are in cent…
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