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Routes in Lane Peak
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Classic Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Fly, The Mod. Snow |
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Lover's Lane WI2 Mod. Snow |
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Zipper, The WI2 M2 Steep Snow |
| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,393 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Michael Blake on Feb 15, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
Description
Lane Peak is probably the most climbed Tatoosh Range peak in the winter. The couloirs on the north side facing paradise are too tempting for those who like steep routes. If there is a good amount of snow filling the chutes, they are generally safe for climbing.
Location
GETTING THERE
From SR 7 in Elbe, turn east onto SR 706, both known as the National Park Highway. Continue through the Nisqually Entrance of Mount Rainier National Park. Be prepared to pay the fee just after entering the park. Drive 15 miles to Narada Falls.
Winter drivers in the park are required to have snow chains, and may be required to install them at Longmire.
The gate at Longmire usually opens between 8am and 9am.
APPROACH
Follow around the side of the parking lot past a maintenance building and bathrooms, and proceed up the steep hillside to the road above which leads to Reflection Lakes in the summer. Follow snowshoe/ski tracks on the road away from Lane Peak until the first major hairpin turn. Turn off the road and down hill here. Drop through the forest until a flat, open clearing, then turn right (east) under Denman Peak and towards Lane. Traverse steep hillsides, gaining elevation.
At the first steep avalanche funnel turn sharply uphill to approach the base of Lovers Lane.
ASCENT ROUTE
Rope up below the first obvious constriction/steep section. Climb placing pickets, screws, and possibly rock pro on the wall on the left. The route steepens in two or three areas. A running belay may be appropriate based on conditions. At the top of the route, downclimb exposed terrain to a tree with rappel slings.
Rappel into the Zipper. The rappel is usually more than 100 ft, so a double rope rappel is recommended. With high snow, a 70 m rope may suffice, with some downclimbing on moderate snow. Evaluate the snow conditions and either rope-up or solo the next section up to the top of the Zipper. To obtain the summit, traverse to climbers left until the slopes to the summit come into view. Ascend to the summit. Sometimes a belay up the last 200-300 feet is advisable.
DESCENT ROUTE
Downclimb from a large tree a few feet below the summit. Rappel from this tree unless snow conditions are good enough to warrant a simple downclimb. Unrope and plunge step down moderate slopes to skiers left towards the saddle between Denman and Lane. At the saddle, go to the far left side and find a steep gully to descend. Retrieve packs and retraces steps to the car.
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