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Shuanglang Softcore Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Shuanglang Softcore

L › R R › L A › Z

	6 Inches From 6 Feet Under S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cactus Pants S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	From Gansu with Love S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Green Hornet, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Hand-Jamming for Dummies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	How Lang is Your Shuang? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	If You Bolt It, They Will Come S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	It Doesn’t Feel Like Winter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jesus Wept S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Medicinal Mushroom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Millennium Falcon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	River of Poo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Softcore S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stairmaster S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Table Score S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Tainted Heart S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Transmigration S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Uncle Sam’s Revenge S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Welcome to the Rock S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Where’s the Reset Button? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

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Elevation:	7,266 ft	2,215 m
GPS:	25.90881, 100.20539 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,006 total · 29/month
Shared By:	gen d-s on Jul 16, 2013
Admins:	Bob Moseley, Nate Ball, Dan Flynn Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Shuanglang Softcore is the little sister crag to Hardcore, with fewer routes, a shorter approach, and softer grades. The rock quality is slightly inferior as well. Nevertheless, there are definitely some worthwhile climbs at Softcore, and this is the place to go if you are looking for moderates, or a mellow day-trip. The cliff comes into the sun around midday.

Further info from Adam Kritzer's 2014 guide: There are 20 routes at Shuanglang Softcore, grades 5.7 – 5.11d. The rock is limestone. Due to the way the rock has accumulated in very clear layers, the climbing style can best be described as crimpy with a handful of pockets and cracks. The angle varies from vertical to slightly positive to barely overhanging. As you can see from the piles of rocks on the ground, there was indeed much loose rock that had to be pried and hammered off before climbing here was safe. On the one hand, the rock has a chossy uninspiring look to it, and you need to use caution when climbing here. On the other hand, most of the routes are both fun and solid, and loose rock is rarer than you might think. The crag takes sun most of the day, and it can get hot! Thankfully, there is a nice hut in front of the crag that provides much-needed shade.It usually dries quickly after the shade. Most of the routes are on the main face, with 3 additional routes around the small bulge to the right.

The area is also included in the Climb China guidebook with good access beta and maps and photos with labeled routes.

Getting There

If coming from Dali old town, either hire a van, or catch the public bus going to Shuanglang. The bus can be caught anywhere on the highway by the East Gate. Buses to Jiangwei, a town about halfway, run more frequently, and are also a good option, as its easier to make the next leg from there. Get off the bus at Dajianpang, a dusty stretch of town that is mostly guesthouses under construction these days. Walk down the alley directly across from the town entrance, passing a temple, a basketball court, and a few fields. From here, look for a small goat-herder trail that heads right up the hillside, or simply follow the construction road that runs underneath the highway, and then up into the hills. After roughly 10 mins, the trail forks right, past some concrete steps, and through a small orchard. It then continues steeply up a horse trail, until a small footpath out right is marked by a small tree with v-shaped branches. From here, the trail continues towards the crag for another five minutes. The approach in total is 20-30 minutes.