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Routes in Shuanglang Hardcore

Black Lake Nidstang S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bunny Hug S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Death Murder Blood Gore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face of All Your Fears, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
In the Clutches of Uncle LiRui S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Insight and Catharsis S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Leviathan S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Poser Disposer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sweet As a Stolen Kiss S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Elevation: 7,563 ft
GPS: 25.908, 100.219 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: gends on Jul 15, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball
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Description

Hardcore is a secluded crag, away from the hustle and bustle of the old town or Shuanglang, with gorgeous views of the fields and Erhai lake. The best part about climbing in Dali is the mild climate; sunny days even in winter are almost too warm, and an overcast day even in August is very pleasant. The rock in Shuanglang is a mixture of limestone and quartzite, and generally quite solid. A few routes have chossy/dirty starts, but these could be protected by bringing a stick/clip for the first bolt. As a newly developed crag, loose rock is concern, and wearing a helmet highly advisable. The cliff comes fully in the sun around noon, with only marginal shade under the overhangs. A 60 meter rope and 14 draws are sufficient for all the routes.

Getting There

From Dali Old Town, either hire a van or catch the public bus that runs along the highway to Shuanglang. Tell the driver that you want to get off at Changyu Cun, about 2 kms past the main tourist area of Dajianpang. Sometimes you have to switch buses halfway in Jiangwei. Once dropped off, walk through the town towards the mountains; the crag is visible from the road. Make your way through the fields behind the village, trending slightly left and heading for the highway underpass. The trail heading up the mountain starts from the road running under the highway, directly into the corn fields. There are many farmer trails at this point, but the best trail heads up and right, eventually reaching a low forest, before cutting back left underneath the cliffs. The approach takes about 45 minutes, the drive 45-90.

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