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Areas in Kettle Valley (Curlew)

Bookstore, The 20 / 12 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Canine Cliff 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Kettle Valley Bouldering 0 / 1 / 1 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Morning Rock 26 / 17 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 34
Ridgeback 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Riverside 6 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Roadside 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Shangri La 6 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Shield, The 0 / 4 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Tonata Creek Wall - Lower Wall 7 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Tonata Creek Wall - Wall of Morning Light 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Viper Head 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 1,850 ft
GPS: 48.905, -118.726 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,162 total, 259/month
Shared By: applewood on Jun 18, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

The Kettle Valley is a lovely rural area with a series of granite (with some areas of granodiorite and gneiss) cliffs along both sides of the Kettle River just a few miles West of Curlew. It is a very scenic valley with great hiking and swimming opportunities to compliment a day of climbing.

Climbing started here in the late 70's with a few adventurous crack climbs, but it was the 90's and the combination of bolts and the Curlew Job Corps climbing recreation program that really spurred route development. The valley has a variety of face and crack climbs, and although many of the routes have bolts, many are mixed and require at least a piece or two of gear. There are now over 250 routes (ranging from 25 to 300' long) along both sides of the valley on a mix of public and private land (be respectful and careful not to go onto private lands, as there is a lot of it surrounding the public crags). Unfortunately some of the best routes are on private land, and since these now have access issues they will not be listed in this guide. Instead the following are the areas with open access (Listed from east to west);

NORTH SIDE;
Morning Rock - 40 routes, sport, mixed and trad up to 3 pitches, 5.2 to 5.12c
Viper Head - 12 routes, sport, mixed and trad up to 2 pitches, 5.7 to 5.10d
Roadside - 3 sport climbs, 60' long 5.10a to 5.11a
Canine Cliff - 3 mixed and trad routes in a remote setting, 160' long 5.9 to 5.10a
The Bookstore - 45 routes, sport, mixed and trad up to 160' long, 5.3 to 5.12a - some of the best!
Riverside - 6 routes, sport and mixed up to 85' long, 5.7 to 5.11d
Ridgeback - 4 routes, mostly trad 130' long, 5.10a to 5.11b

SOUTH SIDE;
All Star Slabs - 8 routes, sport and mixed, up to 90' long, 5.2 to 5.8
Tonata Creek Wall - 12 routes, sport and mixed, up to 2 pitches, 5.6 to 5.11b
Shangri-La - 14 routes, sport, mixed and trad, up to 85' long, 5.6 to 5.11d
The Shield - 6 sport and TR routes in a remote setting with the best rock around, 55 to 160' long, 5.7 to 5.11a

The route grading tends to follow old school standards, rather than newer and softer trends.

  • Note to all climbers this is a rural residential area with public lands interspersed with private property, please do your best to minimize your impact and presence; pack it in-pack it out, and leave no trace. Potential route developers, please respect local etiquette and avoid placing bolts where gear will do, make any bolts or top anchors camouflaged, use stainless steel hardware as much as possible and don't mix your metals. Any comments and input on existing or new routes is much appreciated.
  • Note - a key to route descriptions;
NAME; grade and quality (* - good, ** - very good, *** - great, **** - world class classic); (length); type of pro. used - G = natural/gear, F = fixed (b - bolt, p - piton, fn - fixed nut), M = mixed; TR = toprope, R = runout/dangerous, PG = scary/risky; Description; FA (first ascent date), GU = ground up ascent, TR = top rope ascent.

Getting There

Drive west from Curlew until it is possible to see the cliffs. The most popular climbing is on the north side of the river (gravel road side).

132 Total Climbs

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applewood
Tonasket, WA
applewood   Tonasket, WA
Jon, There is public primitive camping on the south side of the river (most of the climbing is on the north) at Beal Park (about 2 miles down river from the Job Corps turn off). Also there is another spot right below the Bookstore crag (in the trees just east of the parking pullout). It's private (owned by a bank on the west side), but has no posted signage of any kind and has a fire ring and is used by climbers and probably hunters. Finally there is a terrace just up from the road at the base of Morning Rock. Also private, but the land owner welcomes and encourages climbers - he calls it the "Kettle Bluffs" and has signage along the road. Oct 11, 2017
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Do you recommend any places to camp in the area? Oct 11, 2017
applewood
Tonasket, WA
applewood   Tonasket, WA
General conditions note; the Kettle Valley hasn't been climbed much in the past 15+ years, so many of the once scrubbed routes have regrown a coat of lichen and/or moss. Carrying a wire brush is probably a good idea, and some routes will need to be rescrubbed on rappel before they are enjoyable/safe and/or feasible to climb. May 14, 2017
applewood
Tonasket, WA
applewood   Tonasket, WA
The Kettle Valley is listed in the Okanogan Region here, although it is the only area in this region not in Okanogan County. It is in Ferry County, and is located about an hour's drive east of Tonasket (or half an hour north of Republic). Unlike the rest of the Okanogan region, the rock here is granite, and tends to be of high quality. Mar 11, 2014

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