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Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids

L › R R › L A › Z

	Allen's Arete Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Bob's Cat T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Cold North Shell T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Cracked Shell T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Donovan's Dihedral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Fiona's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Heads or Tails? T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	O'Neall Overhang T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Turtle Eye-Grr T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Unknown Two Pin Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Water Groove T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

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Elevation:	6,332 ft	1,930 m
GPS:	40.0042, -105.3658 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	17,972 total · 112/month
Shared By:	Scott S. Allen on Jun 7, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed. Details

Per *Items added 12/30 Closet clean out. Apparel, approach shoe's, (BD, prana, scarpa, REI): Blob, Bitty, and Security Risk have been reopened on 4/21/26.

The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.

5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.

2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….

Description

This very small, turtle-shaped crag, sits facing west, well below Canyon Block. It cannot be clearly seen from the parking pullout or driving down canyon. Follow a faint trail with cairns from the pullout that zig zags east up the hill (and not in the stream gully).

Here you will find a collection of moderate routes I developed for my daughter and her friends, who were all under age 10. There are about 10 micro-sized routes. The routes are mixed protection, a couple of bolts on the blank slab and trad gear. All bolts (4 total) were hand drilled manually.

The best introduction to the crag is via Fiona's Route, 5.7. Even more moderate introduction would be Donovan's Dihedral, 5.4.

This is a good place to practice a kid's first lead after parents have climbed it.

All descents are by careful walk off to the south. I hope this area inspires kids and their families to safely rock climb in Boulder Canyon.

A. Turtle Eye-Grr, 5, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Cold North Shell, 5, 1p, 30', gear.
C. Allen's Arete Crack, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Cracked Shell, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
E1. O'Neall Overhang, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
E2. Heads or Tails?, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
F. Unknown Two Pin Route, 9 or 11, 1p, 60', pins, bolt, & gear.
G. Fiona's Route, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
H1. Bob's Cat, 5, 1p, 60', gear.
H2. Water Groove, 4, 1p, 60', gear.
H3. Donovan's Dihedral, 4, 1p, 60', gear.

Eds. note there appear to be some homeless folks camping in the area. There is quite a bit of debris polluting the area. Consider bringing a big trash bag to help clean it up.

Getting There

Use the same car pullout at 4.8 North as for Canyon Block and Long Walk Rock.

There is an RTD bus stop 100 meters up canyon from the pullout. Take the regional bus to Nederland and tell the driver you want off at mile 4.8.

Per Fiona Dunne: the crag is 5 minutes up the trail. After about 5 minutes, the rock will be on your left.

Eds. this is directly across from Mental Rock.