Elevation: 6,332 ft
GPS: 40.004, -105.366 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 11,087 total · 128/month
Shared By: Scott S. Allen on Jun 7, 2013 with improvements by Fiona Dunne
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This very small, turtle-shaped crag, sits facing west, well below Canyon Block. It cannot be clearly seen from the parking pullout or driving down canyon. Follow a faint trail with cairns from the pullout that zig zags east up the hill (and not in the stream gully).

Here you will find a collection of moderate routes I developed for my daughter and her friends, who were all under age 10. There are about 10 micro-sized routes. The routes are mixed protection, a couple of bolts on the blank slab and trad gear. All bolts (4 total) were hand drilled manually.

The best introduction to the crag is via Fiona's Route, 5.7. Even more moderate introduction would be Donovan's Dihedral, 5.4.

This is a good place to practice a kid's first lead after parents have climbed it.

All descents are by careful walk off to the south. I hope this area inspires kids and their families to safely rock climb in Boulder Canyon.

A. Turtle Eye-Grr, 5, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Cold North Shell, 5, 1p, 30', gear.
C. Allen's Arete Crack, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Cracked Shell, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
E1. O'Neall Overhang, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
E2. Heads or Tails?, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
F. Unknown Two Pin Route, 9 or 11, 1p, 60', pins, bolt, & gear.
G. Fiona's Route, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
H1. Bob's Cat, 5, 1p, 60', gear.
H2. Water Groove, 4, 1p, 60', gear.
H3. Donovan's Dihedral, 4, 1p, 60', gear.

Eds. note there appear to be some homeless folks camping in the area. There is quite a bit of debris polluting the area. Consider bringing a big trash bag to help clean it up.

Getting There

Use the same car pullout at 4.8 North as for Canyon Block and Long Walk Rock.

There is an RTD bus stop 100 meters up canyon from the pullout. Take the regional bus to Nederland and tell the driver you want off at mile 4.8.

Per Fiona Dunne: the crag is 5 minutes up the trail. After about 5 minutes, the rock will be on your left.

Eds. this is directly across from Mental Rock.

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