Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids Rock Climbing
|GPS:||40.004, -105.366 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||11,087 total · 128/month|
|Shared By:||Scott S. Allen on Jun 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Here you will find a collection of moderate routes I developed for my daughter and her friends, who were all under age 10. There are about 10 micro-sized routes. The routes are mixed protection, a couple of bolts on the blank slab and trad gear. All bolts (4 total) were hand drilled manually.
The best introduction to the crag is via Fiona's Route, 5.7. Even more moderate introduction would be Donovan's Dihedral, 5.4.
This is a good place to practice a kid's first lead after parents have climbed it.
All descents are by careful walk off to the south. I hope this area inspires kids and their families to safely rock climb in Boulder Canyon.
A. Turtle Eye-Grr, 5, 1p, 30', gear.
B. Cold North Shell, 5, 1p, 30', gear.
C. Allen's Arete Crack, 5, 1p, 40', gear.
D. Cracked Shell, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
E1. O'Neall Overhang, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
E2. Heads or Tails?, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
F. Unknown Two Pin Route, 9 or 11, 1p, 60', pins, bolt, & gear.
G. Fiona's Route, 7, 1p, 60', gear.
H1. Bob's Cat, 5, 1p, 60', gear.
H2. Water Groove, 4, 1p, 60', gear.
H3. Donovan's Dihedral, 4, 1p, 60', gear.
Eds. note there appear to be some homeless folks camping in the area. There is quite a bit of debris polluting the area. Consider bringing a big trash bag to help clean it up.
There is an RTD bus stop 100 meters up canyon from the pullout. Take the regional bus to Nederland and tell the driver you want off at mile 4.8.
Per Fiona Dunne: the crag is 5 minutes up the trail. After about 5 minutes, the rock will be on your left.
Eds. this is directly across from Mental Rock.
Days w Precip