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Main Rocks Rock Climbing
Routes in Main Rocks
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Amazing Fantasy #15 S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Beach City Crack TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cracked Polystyrene Man TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Enter the Dragon S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fade to Black S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fire Down Below S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Huevos Grande V0 4 |
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Life's a Beach TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Not Fit for Hand or Cam S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Peace Frog TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plastic People TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Psychedelic Kitten Paws TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Return of Mothman S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stone Cowboy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Stretch Armstrong Pulls a Tendon S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Tenuous Ambitions S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Treaty of Dundee, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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War Pigs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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White Sandy Beaches S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Elevation: | 1,043 ft | 318 m |
| GPS: |
40.61446, -81.61437 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 22,527 total · 157/month | |
| Shared By: | shain picard on May 8, 2013 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Description
This routes listed comprises the historic, established routes. Suffice it to say, the topography of the rock allows wandering and many variations may exist, but are not all are documented here, in an effort to keep route identification simple and efficient.
Getting There
From the Lower Dundee Falls parking lot off of Camp Road, follow the trail out of the parking area through the field towards the woods. Once in the trees, there are two trail options marked by green signage; Trail A (red blazes) immediately turns right and will connect with the Upper Dundee Falls parking area. Trail B (white blazes) crosses above the Lower Dundee Falls and will take climbers to the base of the Main Rocks, across the valley, and into the Railroad Vista Boulders before meeting Trail A on top of the hillside. Trail C splits from Trail B just above the Main Rocks and leads to the Marsh Overlook before heading around the top of the horseshoe shaped quarry (terminus).
Follow Trail B left, across the creek on rock steps, which will take you above Lower Dundee falls and along the left side of the gorge. Trail B will eventually split to the right, heading down the Main Rocks climbing area. Travel time of 10-12 minutes.
Top Rope Anchors
Top Rope Anchors:
Currently, there are glue in wave bolts (groups of 3), for top rope anchors located…
- on top flat boulder above Beach City Crack
- hidden on a vertical face above Tenuous Ambitions
- hidden on a vertical face, covered in moss, above the walk off exit for Not Fit for Hand or Cam
- on the vertical face above War Pigs
- on the vertical face above Stone Cowboy
- on the vertical face above Stretch Armstrong Pulls a Tendon; chains
- on the vertical face above White Sandy Beaches; chains
It is strongly recommended that the climber anchor into a tree when gaining access to the anchors to establish a top rope. They have been placed in difficult to reach locations to help prevent vandalism. Thirty feet of static rope or tubular webbing will be sufficient to extend the longest anchor.
Classic Climbing Routes at Main Rocks
Sun Angles Details:
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