Beach City Wildlife Area Climbing
Elevation: | 1,051 ft | 320 m |
GPS: |
40.61456, -81.61398 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 42,196 total · 293/month | |
Shared By: | shain picard on May 8, 2013 · Updates | |
Admins: | Courtney Curtner |
Description
The Beach City Wildlife Area is a 393 acre state wildlife preserve established in the late 1960’s using federal monies. The diverse property includes woods, meadows, marsh, and streams, which draws many visitors for the two prominent waterfalls at opposite ends of the trail system. The property also includes a large deposit of sandstone formations, ranging in quality from blocky loose choss in the mined horseshoe area to bullet hard boulders and outcrops. The primary rock climbing areas include the Main Rocks, the Railroad Vista boulders, and select problems in the gorge. Though primarily a top rope area, fixed lead protection is being developed in conjunction with the Ohio Climbers Coalition. Winter weather provides for multiple ice formations that can be led or top roped at the main falls and in the gorge. Though four season climbing is possible, it comes with two considerations; the wildlife preserve is a permissible hunting area for in season game and you will be the victim of unintentional blood donation during the summer months due to the plentiful mosquito population breeding in the adjacent marsh areas. Additionally, the area is bisected by an active railroad grade. Climbing areas adjacent to, or accessed by, this track, are considered trespassing and are subject to prosecution. Please be educated and act as a positive representative of our climbing community.
Getting There
- From I-77, take the Strasburg exit.
- Drive west on 250 through town.
- After passing the nations 2 nd oldest drive-in theater, follow SR 250 to the left, towards Wooster.
- Turn left on Chestnut Ridge Road (CR 97)…if you crossed RR tracks on SR 250, you went too far.
- Drive 2.1 miles up the hill and look for Camp Road on the left
- Turn left on Camp Road, passing Camp Buckeye on the left…proceed slowly as it is very hilly/twisty and difficult to see oncoming traffic
- The Lower Dundee falls (Main Rocks) parking lot is 1.2 miles on the left, in the valley between hills. It is a small gravel lot with no signage that can accommodate 10 cars. Take trail 1/8 mile to creek. Cross creek at obvious rock crossing and find marker for Trail B. Trail B will be on ridge line with the creek/valley to your right. Take trail B approximately 1/2 mile to Main Rocks.
- To reach the Upper Dundee Falls (Railroad Vista Boulders) parking lot, continue on Camp Road to the stop sign and turn left on Dundee Wilmot Rd (CR 96).
- Drive 1500 feet and the large gravel parking lot will be on the left. This lot has an official State sign, is considerably more spacious, and may be used as an alternative lot for access to the other areas.
History
It was not long after securing the property that the first recreational explorers began touching the rocks of this wildlife preserve in the early 1970’s. Though much of the early use into the mid 1980’s was primarily rappelling and exploring the shallow caves, the mid to late 80’s saw the nearby boy scout camp begin to explore the many outcrops for easy climbing activities. Active technical climbing began to be documented in 1990, with at least three groups of local climbers beginning to explore the Main Rocks and surrounding boulders. In the fall of 1991, a majority of the prominent lines were solidified on lead; bold/sketchy ascents protected with passive nuts, hex chocks, and Lowe tri-cams. Although these climbs were traditionally led, the quality of rock does not encourage such further activity and fixed protection is being worked into a master plan for the area. Today, the Ohio Climbers Coalition actively works to protect the natural resource, encourage use of the area for climbing activities, and work in concert with other user groups to bring awareness to Ohio’s outdoor recreation areas.
Camping
The wildlife area is closed to all activities during the night hours; the State’s subtle way of telling you there is no camping allowed.
Camp Buckeye has been known to accommodate a tent request from time to time, stop in and ask…it can’t hurt.
If you are traveling in a van or RV and desire electrical/sewer hook ups, Baylor Beach (just north of Beach City) or Evergreen RV park (west in Mt. Eaton) are just minutes away and have all the amenities you would expect their overpriced admission to include for a nights stay.
Classic Climbing Routes at Beach City Wildlife Area
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