GPS: 35.622, 113.901 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 206 total · 3/month
Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 25, 2013
Admins: Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

Description

This wall is across the way from the B Section Wall. There are fewer routes, but there are some more easily accessible, worthwhile trad lines on certain portions of the wall. Unfortunately, a few of the routes on the far right of this wall (closest to the village of Guoliang) are dogged by garbage issues, as tourists on the cliffs above throw their trash over the edge. Areas farther left on the wall should be cleaner and much more enjoyable to climb.

o C1
• 5.10a, 28 meters
• Trad
• Bolted anchor, FFA: 小河, 2005
• This dihedral is a stellar stemming corner. Unfortunately, it is close to a field of garbage thrown over the cliff by Chinese tourists.

o C2: 观景台 (Guanjingtai), ”Scenic Vantage Point”
• 5.7, 20 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Tree Anchor, FFA: 伍鹏 (Freewind), 2004
• This route ascends what I call the “Foam Finger Buttress” (looks like a foam finger you see at sport events). This route ascends only a tiny portion of the entire buttress. The whole buttress has multiple potential new lines on either side of the buttress. There might even be potential to extend this line higher onto the buttress. The top of the buttress also features a tourist lookout platform, so you can freak out some Chinese tourists by finishing any new route right on the platform!

o C3: 六人行 (Liurenxing), “Six Line”
• Project, 46 meters, currently 2 pitches (5.10c 26m; unknown, 20m)
• Trad
• Bolted anchors, FA: 小河 (1st pitch), 裂缝 (2nd Pitch), 2007/2010
• Bolted and equipped by: Gump, 2005/8
• Around the corner from “Battery” (C4)

o C4: 电池 (Dianchi), “Battery”
• A1, 54 meters, 3 pitches, (5.9, 22m; 5.9+, 20m; 5.? A1, 12m)
• Trad
• 1st and 2nd pitches: bolted anchors, 3rd pitch: tree anchor, FA: Gump, 2005/8
• This seems like one of the more aesthetic lines on the Battery Wall, though the third pitch is a bit of an unknown in terms of its free grade. Considering the previous pitches were freed as high as .9+, I would count on something in the range of a stout .10/.11 if it currently goes at A1 (unknown whether C1 or A1). However, the third pitch is only 12 meters long to reach the rappel ledge.

o C5: 陨石坑 (Yunshikeng), “Crater”
• 5.9, 27 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Bolted anchor, FFA: 小河
• Equipped by: 原上草 2005/8

o C6: 向左走,向右走 (Xiangzuozou, Xiangyouzou), “Go Left, Go Right”
• 5.11a, 27 meters
• Sport (8 bolts + anchor)
• FA: Torsten Treufeld, 2008/9
• Equipped by: 原上草, 飞马 (Marshell), 2005/8

o C7: 911
• [Unknown], Project, 27 meters
• Sport (10 bolts + anchor)
• Equipped by: 原上草, 2008/9

o C8: Fade to Black
• 5.9+, 24 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Bolted Anchor, Equipped by/FFA: Gump, 2005/8

o C9:通天塔 (Tongtianta) “Tower of Babel”
• 5.9+, 2 pitches
• Trad
• Gear anchor, Bolted anchor at top, Equipped by/FFA: 原上草, Gump, 2005/8
• This route will require a full 60-meter rappel. The last 12 meters can be anchored using a tree on-route.

o C10: 幻听 (Huanting) “Auditory Hallucinations”
• 5.9, 31 meters, 1 pitch
• Trad
• Bolted anchor, Equipped by/FFA: 原上草, 2005/8

o C11: 新约 (Xinyue) “New Testament”
• 5.10 A1, 135 meters (Pitch 1, “Matthew:” 22m, 5.9; Pitch 2, “Mark:” 35m, 5.6; Pitch 3, “Luke:” 33m, 5.10; Pitch 4, “John:” 45m, A1)
• Trad
• Gear anchors, FFA: Gump, J.T. Baller, 2008/9
• This is the only route on the Battery Wall that goes ground-up all the way to the top of the cliff. Not much beta is known at this time, but with a 5.10 free pitch and an A1 aid pitch, the route could probably go free somewhere in the 5.11-5.12 range.

Getting There

Follow the directions to get from Guoliang village atop the cliff to the B-section ("Guoliang Cave/Tunnel Wall") crag. Follow the gravel track back towards the village and the small waterfall exiting from the river gorge at the point in the cliffs closest to Guoliang village. Follow faint tracks towards C-section/Battery Wall. There will be a big buttress that looks like a "foam finger" from sporting events that features a tourist overlook atop the buttress.

BEWARE: The area directly underneath the tourist overlook is plagued by garbage! If you keep moving along the wall, away from Guoliang and further into the valley, this area gets cleaner.

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