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Shared By: RyderS Stroud on Apr 25, 2013
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Description

If you want plenty of enjoyable sport routes, you will find them here. The routes in local guidebooks only capture a segment of this area, since climbers from Zhengzhou have bolted overhung routes beneath the road. This is also the section to go to if you enjoy Chinese tourists staring at you and taking your picture with very expensive cameras (fun for all the gumby’s out there!).

o Routes:

• Left of Guoliang Cave





• B2:
o 5.11a, 20 meters
o Sport (8 bolts + anchor)
o FA: 秋香 (Paul Qiu), 小贾, 2003

• B3
o 5.8, 25 meters
o Sport (9 bolts + anchor)
o FA: 秋香 (Paul Qiu), 小贾, 2003





• B4 and B5
o 5.10, 22 meters
o Sport (6 bolts + anchor)
o FA: 秋香 (Paul Qiu), 小贾, 2003

• B6
o 5.10, 20 meters
o Sport (5 bolts + anchor)
o FA: 秋香 (Paul Qiu), 小贾, 2003

• B7, 催粗腿 (Cuicutui):
o 5.9, 20 meters, 1 pitch
o Trad
o Gear anchor, FFA: 福尔马林,2007/5

• B8, 宽缝 (Kuanfeng):
o 5.10d, 25 meters, 1 pitch
o Trad
o Bolted anchor, FFA: Torsten Treufeld, 2009/10

• B9, Y缝Y (Y-Feng-Y):
o 5.10+, 58 meters, 2 pitches
o Trad: 1st pitch: 5.9+, 2nd pitch: 5.10+
o Bolted anchors, FA: 小河,李悦, 伍鹏 (Freewind)

• B10, 欢迎来郭亮 (Welcome to Guoliang):
o 5.9, 10 meters
o Sport (6 bolts + anchor)
o FA: 伍鹏 (Freewind),王茁 (Kristian)

• Beneath and Right of Guoliang Cave
• 学生证 (Xueshengzheng):
o 5.9+, 15 meters
o Trad
o Tree anchor, FFA: 福尔马林,2007/5
o Ends at the road of Guoliang Tunnel. Not a highly recommended climb.

• Amphitheater Routes 1-10:
o 5.10+ to 5.12+ (estimated): These routes were just bolted and established by local climbers from nearby Zhengzhou, so none of them are in current guidebooks. Count on overhung, RRG-type sport climbing. Bolted anchors.

Getting There

From Guoliang village at the top of the cliff, follow the famous Guoliang Tunnel (literally a paved hole in the cliffside) downhill. You will have a river gorge to your right. After snaking in and out of tunnels, you will arrive at a big opening on the right side of the road that features a wide gravel track running out from the cliff. Follow this track. It will run along the base of all the B-section routes.

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