Rehai Rock Climbing
|GPS:||25.135, 121.515 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Sep 28, 2012|
If you live north or west of Taipei main station, it's super-close. From city center, it's a third as far as Long Dong by scooter. If you have a car (thus can take the highway), it's half as far from city center. If you take public transportation, and thus have to walk to the trail entrance, it depends on where you're coming from.
A small cliff of andesitic scoria set above the Xinbeitou area of Taipei City. In contrast to Big Cannon Cliff, it does have bolts for leading, and is outside the national park. It has a more strenuous approach (5 minutes from trailhead), but for those who wish to lead climb outdoors in the Taipei area, this is the only option. It is primarily a sport climbing area, with one section that can be setup for top-roping.
In spite of its convenient location in the heart of a major metropolitan city, the cliff does not see many climbers. Though it can be quickly covered in vegetation and debris if not maintained, the wall was thoroughly rejuvenated in May 2016. Though short and sometimes scruffy, there are quite a few gems amongst the rough. The rock is typically slabby with horizontals and crimpy features. There are even a few short crack systems. Top anchors all have descent hardware, but bolts may be far apart or rigged with singular links that cause rope twist when lowered through.
The First Wall is densely packed with slab climbs broken up by ledges. The Overhang Wall can be setup for top-rope via obvious trail on the left side, and is mostly easy, with a single challenging sequence of moves. The Gully Route is a gem of a boulder problem. Skinny and Fat Walls have a few flurries of moves, but are mostly walk-ups. The White-streak Wall is tiny but quality. Finally, the Last Wall has a concentration of "tough start to cruising" climbs with some variation, the last one being the "king line" of the crag.
If you continue past the cliffs to another rocky outcropping, you can climb to the top of the ridge. This is a great vantage point. From here, you can join the hiking trails that go through the hills to Yangmingshan University and the Shipai area.
The trail starts to the right of the fisheye mirror on the switch back road. Hike up a cobbled stone trail for 2 minutes to a boulder in the trail. Turn right up a smaller, rutted, steep trail. Follow this trail for three minutes and you will arrive at First Wall.
Total approach time is 30-40 minutes by foot. 5 if arriving by motor vehicle.
Classic Climbing Routes at Rehai
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