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Rehai

International > Asia > Taiwan > Taipei

Description

Taipei area's best crag... if you have your own transportation!

If you live north or west of Taipei Main Station, it's super-close. From city center, it's a third as far as Long Dong by scooter. If you have a car (thus can take the highway), it's half as far from city center. If you take public transportation, and thus have to walk to the trail entrance, it depends on where you're coming from.

A small cliff of coarse sandstone set above the Xinbeitou area of Taipei City. In contrast to Big Cannon Cliff, it does have bolts for leading, and is outside the national park. It has a more strenuous approach (5 minutes from trailhead), but for those who wish to lead climb outdoors in the Taipei area, this is the only option. It is primarily a sport climbing area, with one section that can be setup for top-roping.

In spite of its convenient location in the heart of a major metropolitan city, the cliff does not see many climbers. Even the most popular walls can become overgrown quickly, thus regular gardening is required. Though short and sometimes scruffy, there are quite a few gems amongst the rough. The rock is typically slabby with horizontals and crimpy features. There are even a few short crack systems. Top anchors all have descent hardware, but bolts may be far apart which can cause rope twist when lowering.

The First Wall is densely packed with slab climbs broken up by ledges. The Overhang Wall can be setup for top-rope via obvious trail on the left side, and is mostly easy, with a single challenging sequence of moves. The Gully Route is a gem of a boulder problem. Skinny and Fat Walls have a few flurries of moves, but are mostly walk-ups. The White-streak Wall is tiny but quality. Finally, the Last Wall has a concentration of "tough start to cruising" climbs with some variation, the last one being the "king line" of the crag.

If you continue past the cliffs to another rocky outcropping, you can climb to the top of the ridge. This is a great vantage point. From here, you can join the hiking trails that go through the hills to Yangmingshan University and the Shipai area.

Getting There

From Xinbeitou MRT, walk to the corner of Guangming Rd and Zhongshan Road. There is a 7-11 here. Continue up Zhongshan Road, keeping right at the public hot spring, to a sort-of round-about. Turn left onto Wenquan Rd and follow this, staying right at a fork, and then just keep the cliffs above on your right as the road ascends into the forest. At a sharp switchback, locate a fisheye mirror near a set of stone steps which will lead you up towards the cliff.

The trail starts to the right of the fisheye mirror on the switch back road. Hike up a cobbled stone trail for 2 minutes to a boulder in the trail. Turn right up a smaller, rutted, steep trail. Follow this trail for three minutes and you will arrive at First Wall.

Total approach time is 30-40 minutes by foot. 5 if arriving by motor vehicle.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 6
First Wall 1
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
First Wall 2
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
First Wall 3
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
First Wall 4
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
First Wall 5
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
First Wall 6
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Overhang Wall 1
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Overhang Wall 2
Sport, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
Overhang Wall 3
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Overhang Wall 4
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Overhang Wall 5
Sport, TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Gully Route
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Skinny Wall 1
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Skinny Wall 2
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Fat Wall 1
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Fat Wall 2
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
White-streak Wall 1
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
White-streak Wall 2
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Last Wall 1
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Last Wall 2
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Last Wall 3
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Last Wall 4
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 5
Last Wall 5
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
First Wall 1
 6
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
First Wall 2
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
First Wall 3
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
First Wall 4
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
First Wall 5
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
First Wall 6
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Overhang Wall 1
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Overhang Wall 2
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Overhang Wall 3
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, TR
Overhang Wall 4
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Overhang Wall 5
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Gully Route
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Skinny Wall 1
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Skinny Wall 2
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Fat Wall 1
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Fat Wall 2
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
White-streak Wall 1
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
White-streak Wall 2
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Last Wall 1
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Last Wall 2
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Last Wall 3
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Last Wall 4
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Last Wall 5
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

From a nearby hilltop looking north, burial chambers on the far hillside.
[Hide Photo] From a nearby hilltop looking north, burial chambers on the far hillside.
Taiwanese climbers on the first two routes of the Overhang Wall
[Hide Photo] Taiwanese climbers on the first two routes of the Overhang Wall
Overhang wall, right side
[Hide Photo] Overhang wall, right side
Camilla rapping from atop the First Wall
[Hide Photo] Camilla rapping from atop the First Wall
The Big Wall
[Hide Photo] The Big Wall
A dirty bolted arete
[Hide Photo] A dirty bolted arete
White streak wall
[Hide Photo] White streak wall
Ernie Rock, just past the Gully Route
[Hide Photo] Ernie Rock, just past the Gully Route
Overhang wall, left side
[Hide Photo] Overhang wall, left side
The Overhang Wall
[Hide Photo] The Overhang Wall
Turn here!
[Hide Photo] Turn here!
Looking back at the turnout
[Hide Photo] Looking back at the turnout

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Directions from the road to the crag: the trail starts to the right of the fisheye mirror on the switch back road (as described above). Hike up a cobbled stone trail for 2 minutes and then turn right up a smaller, steep trail. Follow this up for 5 minutes until you reach a fork and turn right. Follow this trial for another 5 minutes and you will arrive at First Wall.

There are multiple areas at Rehai, each about 1 minute walk from the last, along the same trail. The top of Overhang Wall can be reached by a trail to the left of Overhang Wall 1. Sep 14, 2015
[Hide Comment] In the summer, get here early and enjoy shade until 12pm(ish). After that, many areas are in direct sun until late afternoon. Sep 19, 2018
[Hide Comment] There is one wall missing here. Between the first wall and the overhang wall there is one more wall with about 4 routes or so and some have nice bouldery start Feb 10, 2019
[Hide Comment] The wall Prab refers to, between the First and Overhang Walls, is very narrow and is right above the trail. There are a couple of different "lines" I suppose you could say, but I believe they all end at the same anchor at the top. They are all still very much overgrown despite a monumental effort to clean them up. There is only real "line" in my opinion, despite there being four starts, and that is the intuitive one right up the middle, 2nd bolt line from the right. Crux is just a couple moves in, although you can make it easier by traversing in from the right. Feb 10, 2019