Elevation: 1,660 ft
GPS: 49.782, 11.31 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 228 total · 3/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on May 28, 2012
Admins: Shawn Heath
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Description

This large tower of rock looms over the small village of Moritz like an evil wizards tower. It's north-facing aspect and the surrounding trees add a feeling of gloom as you stare up its lightly overhanging face. This nice warm-weather crag offers some difficult routes which will have your fingertips hurting. There are 9 routes in total: two 5.13s, two 5.12s, two hard 5.11s, and three 5.10s. The climbing is somewhat atypical for the Frankenjura in that there aren't many pockets and the climbing follows tiny edges and relies heavily on good technique. The easier routes (Bella Vista, Exil, Michl Mörtel) of course aren't so technical, but offer a good possibility to warm up the muscles.
The routes are, for the most part, well protected. For the longer routes, you'll need 14-15 quickdraws.

Getting There

From the parking area in Moritz, walk uphill into the village and past the bus stop. Take a right and go between the two garages to reach a path which heads straight up to the crag. 2 minutes.

3 Total Climbs

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