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Routes in Moritzer Turm

Bella Vista Direkt S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Exil S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hessischer Zipfelklatscher S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Description

This large tower of rock looms over the small village of Moritz like an evil wizards tower. It's north-facing aspect and the surrounding trees add a feeling of gloom as you stare up its lightly overhanging face. This nice warm-weather crag offers some difficult routes which will have your fingertips hurting. There are 9 routes in total: two 5.13s, two 5.12s, two hard 5.11s, and three 5.10s. The climbing is somewhat atypical for the Frankenjura in that there aren't many pockets and the climbing follows tiny edges and relies heavily on good technique. The easier routes (Bella Vista, Exil, Michl Mörtel) of course aren't so technical, but offer a good possibility to warm up the muscles.
The routes are, for the most part, well protected. For the longer routes, you'll need 14-15 quickdraws.

Getting There

From the parking area in Moritz, walk uphill into the village and past the bus stop. Take a right and go between the two garages to reach a path which heads straight up to the crag. 2 minutes.

3 Total Climbs

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