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Routes in Petit Griffon

Northeast Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Description

This is the striking spire in the notch between Mount Abbot and Mount Mills. First climbed by Dave McDonald and David Harvey, June 1964. The last 30 feet of climbing to the higher (western) summit are 5.7 on high quality granite.

To descend make one short rappel from webbing and cord wrapped around the summit block. Then either rappel or downclimb 4th/low 5th class rock to the notch between this little peak and Mount Mills.

For more information check out RJ Secor's The High Sierra 3rd ed., p.341 or Moynier and Fiddler's Climbing California's High Sierra 2nd ed., p.295.

Getting There

From 395 at Tom's Place drive west on the Rock Creek Road. At the end of the road is the Mosquito Flats Trailhead.

Take the Little Lakes Valley Trail to The Mono Pass Trail to Ruby Lake. Hike around the east side of the lake on talus and head south cross-country past Mills Lake and toward the spire. It's about a 4.5 mile hike gaining about 2,600 feet.

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
This page is terrible. Are you planning to add photos and more description? Jun 25, 2012
F T
F T  
Approach couloir is impassable if not covered in snow (very loose scree; some of it over mixed ice/scree). It’s difficult to get a good look at the conditions of the couloir until you are above Ruby Lake (90-120 min hike from the trail hood). I would not attempt the approach again on a dry year. Sep 3, 2018

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