The Edge (Closed) Rock Climbing

The Edge is located on private property and is currently CLOSED TO CLIMBING.  The landowner does not tolerate trespassing and climbers have been asked to leave.  If you would like to help resolve access issues here and elsewhere, please consider joining and donating to the  Access Fund. 

The following info is for historical purposes only:

I ( Tom Stryker ) contacted a friend who co-authored an old Stover guide with me, and he did have our Edge notes, and graciously organized and mailed them to me. There are 32 trad routes that were led ground up on gear and a few pins. Mel Hamel, Tom Moffatt and I , had our run of the place, and climbed the lines we could with the gear we had at the time.

The original sequence numbers will be a little difficult to use as we always approached from the downstream end (climber's right), but the upstream end (climber's left) is used now.

Only four climbs had fixed gear at the time, between 1981 and 1983, two each in the area behind the Great Wall, one pin on Fruition and one on Thunder Road. In some cases small cams which were not available at the time may allow ascents of climbs where the pitons disappeared, but use some care, particularly on the Rotwand, as we were in deck territory every time we went out the the nose to work on getting some gear.

As I understand it, some routes have been bolted on the Great Wall. The most common center route on this wall has been led on gear at 5.8 X. We did some other routes that were pretty bold, and I am concerned these would get bolted unknowingly. If you are planning to bolt more routes there I would appreciate any opportunity to fill you in on existing trad routes there.

Buttresses and routes, from upstream to downstream.

Rotwand

* The Rotwand

Great Wall

* EB, Phone Home

* Great Wall Nose

* Great Wall (center trad line)

* Great Wall right variation

Leaning Pillar

* Pro-found

* Right Hand Drive

Buttress 8

* Strapaducktome

* Bondage and Discipline

Buttress 7

* Don Genero

* Would I?

* Harelip

Buttress 6

* Three Stooges Go Climbing

* Thunder Road

* Simple Solo

Central Buttress (Buttress 5)

* Monster Mash

* Tryin' Times

* Stop the Presses

* Central Buttress Direct

* Knuckle Sandwich

* The Nose That Roared

Buttress 4 is short and has no routes.

Buttress 3

* Shattered

* Flattered

Fruition Buttress (Buttress 2)

* Limburger Groove

* Self Cleaning

* Fruition

* Tuition

Buttress 1

* Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage

* Mel's Route

* The Tongue That Swung