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Routes in The Edge

Bondage and Discipline T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Central Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dead Men Don't Eat Roughage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don Genero T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
EB, Phone Home T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Flattered T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Fruition T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper), The S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Wall (center trad line) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Harelip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Knuckle Sandwich T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mel's Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nose That Roared, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pro-found T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Right Hand Drive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotwand Direct, The T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Rotwand, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shattered T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Simple Solo T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Strapaducktome T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Three Stooges Go Climbing A3 PG13
Thunder Road T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Tongue That Swung, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tuition TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Would I? T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Sport, TR, 75 ft
FA: See Great Wall (center trad line) for history. Not sure who drilled the bolts after the early 1980s.
Page Views: 1,127 total · 24/month
Shared By: Justin Compton on Jun 11, 2014
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Slick, Slippery, Polished, Pumpy, Fun! Classic climbing on smooth red Lockatong Formation argillite interspersed with friable Brunswick Formation shale...

Location

First Buttress, middle of the face.

Protection

3 bolts, chain anchors.

Photos

Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
 
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
 
Probably my favorite route at the Edge.

Tom Stryker with friends Moffat and Hamel first did this as a ground up trad lead - probably in the early 1980s. That surely would change the letter at the end of the grade! My memory's a little foggy about who bolted this one after these years, but I'm pretty sure they ran it by Tom before drilling. Jun 12, 2014
Nobody asked me about bolting it. Aug 24, 2014
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
 
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
 
Oh, the ravages of age on my memory... looks like I need to dig up that thread from Rockclimbing.com and see what was actually posted there about the retrobolting.

[edit: looks like I confused that with a conversation about a different crag.] Dec 10, 2014
No worries Justin. It was X-rated in the ground up trad version, not destined to be popular that way, and too good of a route not to be enjoyed by others. Would have been nice to be asked, but so be it. Dec 16, 2014

More About The Great Wall (center - aka the Pumper)

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