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Areas in Douthitt Mountain

Hidden Corral 1 / 8 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Pirate's Cove 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Stuffed Valley 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 7,800 ft
GPS: 41.991, -105.493 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,776 total · 59/month
Shared By: Dennis Horning on Feb 11, 2012
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
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Description

A hidden corral lies within this huge granite dome that has a narrow canyon access. The climbs are on the walls of this enclosure and in the canyon.

The signage at the entrance to the LPWHMA makes no mention of campfires rules.  But the Kennedy ranch folks demand NO CAMPFIRES.  They do own most of the private land in this special use area managed by WY Game and Fish and could have roads closed where violations occur. So if you must have a campfire go elsewhere.

Getting There

Access i off the Palmer Road at the Douthitt parking lot just before the beginning of the Duck Creek Slough.

25 Total Climbs

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Michael Friedrichs
Salt Lake City, UT
Michael Friedrichs   Salt Lake City, UT
It has come to my attention that someone has been stealing the hangers off of the first bolts on some of the routes in the Douthitt Mountain region. I don't understand the thought process behind this act of vandalism. If the person who did this had the courage to explain the theft of these hangers, I would like to have a discussion. I don't know which routes are affected, whether they are my routes or not, but the routes belong to all of us. A meaningless bolt war will only result in destruction of the rock and possibly access issues.

Please return the hangers and end this now. There are various bolt funds that can support your bolting habit. If you don't want to clip the first bolt, don't clip it. Leave the routes as the first ascensionist created them. May 30, 2018
Che Sera Sera

Zach O of Extreme Angles Publishing (publisher of the Laramie Range Climbing Guidebook) just called me and said his guidebook company will cover the the cost of the hangers as he would like to someday see his daughter clip those low hangers as soon as possible. But do not get your hopes too high to see these low hangers replaced any to soon as the girl is not quite 2 yrs old yet.

For now it is bring a crash pad or a stick clip. Those with big balls will not need either. May 31, 2018
The parking area for Douthitt Mtn is on the private ranch land of the Kennedy folks. Joyce/Gene Kennedy have told me several times that they want NO CAMPFIRES on their land and to pass their demand along to, in particular, climbers camping on their land. Since the finding of the Stuffed Valley Climbing Area circa 2002, I have seen no campfire rings at the parking & camping place. Until....\\\

Saturday evening June 2 some climbers built a big fire ring of rock and left the ashes. We cleaned up the black mess this week and hope we will see no more of these ad hoc fire rings. If you must have a fire do not make it on this private land. The Kennedy Ranch Folks have given us climbers a great deal of access over their land to some fine rock climbing areas. I do hope climbers can honor their request/demand for no campfires after all they do make their living from cattle grazing on unburned fields.

The Kennedy Ranch Folks want NO CAMPFIRES on their land. A portion of their land is within the LPWHMA which includes a big portion of the Reese Mtn granite. The LPWHMA signs do not mention the rules for campfires. The LPWHMA is managed by WY Game & Fish 307 745 4046. Give these managers a call if you doubt the legitimacy of the Kennedy Folks to have spur roads closed because of campfires where the Kennedy want none. Jun 7, 2018
I just got word from Woody Barmore & Heidi Stearns of Lander that they have replaced 8 of the 36 missing hangers.

Thank you, Woody & Heidi............ Jun 8, 2018
From Frankie Cranky's post in the Laramie Range section and reposted here:

"I am very disappointed with the style in which many routes have been bolted in the Laramie Range. Route after route has a first bolt that can be clipped from the ground standing flat footed. Often, the second bolt is only 2 or three feet beyond that! The biggest disgrace is the number of cracks that have been bolted. It should be embarrassing for the developers to have bolted cracks that will accept traditional gear. I understand that some areas (Wild Iris for example) have bolted cracks because they are sport areas. Laramie Range is neither a sport area or a traditional area as there are likely equal numbers of both types of routes. Shame on the developers for tarnishing such a pristine area. I am extremely disappointed. If some of the routes were bolted ground up and bolts were high-stepped to place another bolt then equipment like removable bolts should have been used. At the very least 5-piece Rawl bolts should have been used. I hope that any further development is done with some forethought and respect for the rock and the climbing community". Dec 14, 2017

It is a correct observation to note there is far less trad developement in Reese Mt granite region of the Laramie Range than sport route developments. If you tradsters had not been sitting on your asses for all those years while we put up sport climbs in this region you might have contributed more trad climbs in the likes of what you think is the way climbing ought to be done. Frankie Cranky, sorry, you missed the boat .... hanging out at Vedauwoo too much? Cry all you want Frankie Cranky but there is still plenty of untouched Laramie Peak granite and Box Elder granite in this massive region. Get off your dead ass.


Frankie Crankie's authority appears to be uninformed as to why we have placed the bolts as we do. But his attitude is quite trad when he suggests," if some of the routes were bolted from the ground up...". To say the area is "...neither sport nor trad ..." is meaningless but it can be said that we do have possibilities for both sport and trad in that large area.

We have bolted our routes to our sport preference and hence the bolt placement is with a low bolt and no need for a stick clip. And yes we do not carry cams and nuts -- carrying gear is a pain in the ass. So you will find a convenience bolt next to a crack sometimes but these bolts do not prevent you from placing cams in those cracks of our sport climbs as the bolts are not placed in the cracks. In general we have left the likes of continuous cracks
unclimbed and have little desire to do continuous cracks. I spent some time doing continuous cracks at Devils Tower with all nuts and what we have bolted here is not the likes of Devils Tower Cracks.

And yes, imagine a world where every climber carries a complete trad rack of cams and nuts -- What a waste of resources to save the proximity area of cracks to suit your likes so they would be free of bolts. Jun 14, 2018
Michael Friedrichs
Salt Lake City, UT
Michael Friedrichs   Salt Lake City, UT
I have been to the Douthitt Mountain area on several occasions and even established a few bolted routed there. I have done most of the routes in Zach's guidebook. I don't recall seeing any continuous cracks that could be safely protected using all gear. The vast majority of the routes have no gear placements whatsoever, anywhere. The rock is quite featured with patina edges, crimps, and the occasional chickenhead. I think we can move beyond the "bolted cracks" argument. Anyone who has been there can see that this is simply not the case.

As to the placement of the first bolt, or spacing of any of the bolts, who gets to choose? Who makes these rules? If I think the bolts are too close together, or too far apart, can I simply remove, replace, or add more bolts? I generally bring my stick clip and usually pre-clip the second bolt. I feel this is the safest way for me to climb them and I am comfortable with this style. I'm not concerned with what anyone else thinks. My style is for me and me alone. I feel no need to remove the first bolt. If, like me you choose not to use the first bolt and it offends you so, can you not simply just avert your eyes? Similarly, if I felt that the bolts were too far apart for my level of courage, could I not simply toprope this route or just move on to the next one?

Taking hangers is stealing. It is stealing property that belongs to all of us and hard work and satisfaction that belongs to the route's developer. There is no ethical justification. We've all seen what usually results from bolt wars -- scarred and ugly rock, many more drilled holes, and potential loss of access due to the attention of the area among the land managers. The Laramie Range has some of the best granite anywhere. It's compact, featured, clean, and steep enough to be fun. If we could all have informed discussions we could preserve the resources for us and future generations. Let's climb there and discuss all this over a beer, find solidarity as a group, and be grateful to have such opportunities. Jun 14, 2018
Mike is right. I'm short and always forget the stick clip. It does function well as a cane. Or maybe a pike in bear country. The route critic should stop complaining and like me be grateful for all the good and fun routes and hard work done. Jun 15, 2018
Doug Lintz
Kearney, NE
Doug Lintz   Kearney, NE
What a fantastic remote spot for a day or two of cragging!

Yes, some of the first bolts are very low, which allowed me to simply move my first draw up to the second bolt. Whatever. The sun still came up the next morning. Much thanks to the developers of these remote crags, and to those replacing the stolen hangers. My group and I had a great time on this beautiful rock! Jun 16, 2018
Sean Kennedy
Laramie, WY
Sean Kennedy   Laramie, WY
Some of the routes on this site are on deeded (not state or BLM) and no anchors are allowed. Please respect the landowner and the land. Jul 4, 2018

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