Elevation: 3,247 ft
GPS: 35.821, -118.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,076 total · 200/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Dec 22, 2011 with improvements by Cory Brooks
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Tonight
45°F 7°C
Fri
69°F - 48°F 21°C - 9°C
Sat
71°F - 47°F 22°C - 8°C
Sun
57°F - 42°F 14°C - 6°C
Memorial Day
61°F - 46°F 16°C - 8°C
Tue
71°F - 51°F 22°C - 11°C
Wed
77°F - 53°F 25°C - 12°C

Description

New Directions consists of seven, and counting, relatively compact climbing areas: Parking Lot Rock, The Globule, Middle Cliff, Heart Rock, Rusty Nail, Nowhere Man, The Asylum, and The Morgue. All areas can be seen from the road as you approach.The areas are located about a half mile north of Kernville Rock (Kern Slabs). For great pictures, history, route beta and etc, get the local guide here:
kernvalleyclimbs.com/
The climbing is substantially steep slab, with old school ratings. Clean rock, good sun exposure for late fall, winter and early spring. Can be HOT in summer. Kern River is 3 minute hike from the parking area.

Getting There

~5 miles from Kernville on the Mountain Hwy 99 you will pass Camp 3. Approximately 1/2 mile past Camp 3 sign you will see a small sign on your right "Chico Flats". Park here. The main trail leaves the pullout just before here, up and parallel to the road, well marked with cairns.

44 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Directions

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Rusty Nail
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Wyonna's Big Brown Beaver
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 9
Sunrise Service
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Crack to Nowhere
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Seven Draws
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 7
Nowhere Man
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Kernville Chopper
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
I think I'll skip the roof.
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
The Kern Mantle
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Somewhere Man
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Anxiety Attack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 4
Unnamed Sources
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Welcome to The Asylum
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Assault and Battery
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
The Heckler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rusty Nail New Directions Cliff
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
Wyonna's Big Brown Beaver Rusty Nail Area
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sunrise Service Heart Rock
 9
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Crack to Nowhere Nowhere Man
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Seven Draws Rusty Nail Area
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nowhere Man Nowhere Man
 7
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Kernville Chopper Middle Cliff
 7
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
I think I'll skip the roof. Globule
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Kern Mantle Middle Cliff
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Somewhere Man Nowhere Man
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Anxiety Attack Rusty Nail Area
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Unnamed Sources Parking Lot Rock
 4
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Welcome to The Asylum Asylum
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Assault and Battery Nowhere Man
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
The Heckler Middle Cliff
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Directions »

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