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Elevation: 3,247 ft
GPS: 35.8212, -118.4575
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 55,633 total · 373/month
Shared By: Ryan Nevius on Dec 22, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

New Directions consists of seven, and counting, relatively compact climbing areas: Parking Lot Rock, The Globule, Middle Cliff, Heart Rock, Rusty Nail, Nowhere Man, The Asylum, and The Morgue. All areas can be seen from the road as you approach.The areas are located about a half mile north of Kernville Rock (Kern Slabs). For great pictures, history, route beta and etc, get the local guide here:
kernvalleyclimbs.com/
The climbing is substantially steep slab, with old school ratings. Clean rock, good sun exposure for late fall, winter and early spring. Can be HOT in summer. Kern River is 3 minute hike from the parking area.

Getting There Suggest change

~5 miles from Kernville on the Mountain Hwy 99 you'll pass Camp 3. Approximately 1/2 mile past Camp 3 sign you'll see a small sign on your right "Chico Flats". Park here.

There are currently two established trails used to access the different areas. Just south of the small parking area on the east side of the road is one trail going straight up the hill and leading to Parking Lot Rock and Middle Cliff. The other trail is just around the large boulder parallel to the road and it is used to access the rest of the areas areas.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at New Directions

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Crank Start Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 11
Rusty Nail
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
[Redacted]
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Seven Draws
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Sunrise Service
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Kawasaki Kingdom
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 9
Nowhere Man
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Kernville Chopper
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
I think I'll skip the roof.
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
The Kern Mantle
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Anxiety Attack
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Unnamed Sources
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Somewhere Man
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Assault and Battery
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
The Heckler
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Crank Start Crack One Minute Walk Rock
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Rusty Nail New Directions Cliff
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
[Redacted] Rusty Nail Area
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Seven Draws Rusty Nail Area
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sunrise Service Heart Rock
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Kawasaki Kingdom Middle Cliff
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Nowhere Man Nowhere Man
 9
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Kernville Chopper Middle Cliff
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
I think I'll skip the roof. Globule
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Kern Mantle Middle Cliff
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Anxiety Attack Rusty Nail Area
 6
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
Unnamed Sources Parking Lot Rock
 5
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Somewhere Man Nowhere Man
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Assault and Battery Nowhere Man
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
The Heckler Middle Cliff
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in New Directions »

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