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Routes in New Directions Cliff

Garden Party T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rusty Nail S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Sport, 140 ft, Grade II
FA: John Newman, Will Crjenko (11/1982)
Page Views: 749 total, 23/month
Shared By: Chris Joy on Apr 24, 2015
Admins: Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Very fun climb with a great view. This climb is the farthest to the left on New Directions Cliff. Starts behind a tree and climbs a 20’ wide face and arête on the right. Finishes with a small bowl with 2 rap rings for rappeling. Use 2 60m ropes to rap down. I used an 80m rope to lead, and rap to the bottom. I suggest this route for new climbers or new leaders.

Location

This climb is the farthest to the left on New Directions Cliff. Starts behind a tree and climbs a 20’ wide face and arête on the right.

Protection

10 quickdraws are 'needed', but you can skip several bolts as the route is well protected with lots of jugs, and finger crimps at the arete. Someone added several bolts to the left to end up on top of the rock.

Photos

Actually none of the routes were renamed. Here is the history as I know of it. The earliest route on the "Rusty Nail Wall" was supposedly called "Rusty Nail" by John Newman. I brought John up to the wall before printing the new guide and asked him where the route went. I pointed out that the old Stonemasher guide implies it went up near the middle of the face. John said that he couldn't remember where it went but, that at that time, he never would have climbed the face as there was little or no protection. He did remember that he climbed a crack and found a rusty nail along the way. Hence his moniker for this area. Perhaps he climbed the main corner on the left side of the wall, he doesn't know, but that would be my guess.

As for Wyonnas Big Brown Beaver, my first knowledge of this route, which is the bolted route up the center of the lower part of the RN wall, was from John Jones who was on the first(?) ascent party that placed the bolts. He and Russ Nakatsakasa(sp?, not me and Newman, then named the route Wionna's BBB. They also put in the belay bolts on the second pitch which goes up right near the edge.

As for garden party, no one seems to really know. Some of the older routes were put up by people just starting to climb some 4 decades ago and they often connected unobvious disjointed cracks and face. Much has been lost to time. Nevertheless, if Chris Joy knows of a more accurate history, I'm certainly willing to be informed.
Jan 11, 2017
Chris Joy  
 
After much research, and getting my hands on the 1983 Stonersmashers, this route is actually called Rusty Nail. Garden Party is several feet to the left of this route. Both routes were originally trad routes that ended at the same belay station on top of the arete. Jan 6, 2017
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
You tell 'em, Chris. There's way too much renaming of old established routes going on.
Don't know that I agree with Guy regarding the METH, but thank you for calling folks out on this unsavory practice. Dec 26, 2016
Chris Joy  
 
Wanderwegger I picked up their local "guidebook" today. Who are they to rename a classic route? "Wyonnas Big Brown Beaver" is NOT the name of this route. Sep 25, 2016
There are actually quite a few locals (live in Kernville) that enjoy climbing here.
Herb Laegar and John Newman call this bolted route Wyonnas Big Brown Beaver, and say that Garden party is farther left. The second pitch up to the left is Bootlaeger, one of Herbs new routes.
He just published a guide for New Directions and the Slabs, now over 100 routes including some great new ones that he put up. His site is KernValleyClimbs.com May 31, 2016
Chris Joy  
 
Guy, I just inform of the route, and what there is. There are a lot of "locals" that have put up several bolts after the fact. There are 10+ bolts now on the route, but I always skip 3-4 every time I lead this. May 27, 2016
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
Wow, 10 bolts now. I can't recall any climb of Eddy's that has 10 bolts. So this is the new way, I guess.
METH Apr 15, 2016