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Routes in Arcegno

ANC Mandela 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Galileo 6b+ S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Liberate Gorbatschow 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pangea 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poste Restante 6c S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rastarfari 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
S.T.N.R.N.R. 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 1,288 ft
GPS: 46.164, 8.745 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Dec 12, 2011
Admins: Dan Flynn
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Description

Grippy, wood-grained gneiss. Easy access. Stout climbingÂ… unfortunately also mostly on private land, and there are intermittent access issues resulting. There are six sectors listed in the SAC guidebook, but the biggest and baddest is the Guffeto sector, which is next to a summer house for a cranky dude. If you end up here, keep the shitting in the woods and hollering to a minimum.

More current access information may be here
http://www.fuorivia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=25910
Or search for 'arrampicata arcegno guffeto'. "Closed" in this case means the landowner unscrewed the first 2-3 bolts and took the hangers off, but most of the climbs are still protectable on gear.

44 climbs, 6a - 8c. Some really nice looking 7a-7a+ routes. Topo PDF from bigwall.ch.
Settore Guffeto may be closed! See description. Details

Getting There

Bus accessible, short ride from Locarno. Or drive down through the narrow stone alleys of the town and find a parking spot along the road. Approach to the Guffeto wall involves a few sections of ascending on fixed chains, flip flops not advised!

7 Total Climbs

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