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Routes in Mount Butters

Stanford Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M1
Elevation: 10,460 ft
Shared By: Ken Trout on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Kate Lynn
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INTRODUCTION

Mount Butters is the furthest north of the good rock climbing in the Battle Range. First climbed in 1914, from Butters Lake via the east glacier and ridge.

The route that looks most interesting for alpinists is the 1958 Stanford Route by DeStaebler-Harlin-Hemming-Kendall, up the north ridge. History buffs may recognize that among these names are the first Yosemite trained Americans to actually impress the Europeans with their tick-list.

Fred Beckey, Steve Drake, and Ronald Van Horsen climbed the west face and south ridges from a (presumed) chopper landing at the col south of Butters; Pequod Pass. They also climbed on the north side of Moby Dick from camp at the pass.

APPROACH

The shortest way may be to hike up Butters Creek from the end of the Duncan Road. Peakfinder seems to indicate that the road was washed out dozens of kilometers south. But it looks good near the termination at the border of Glacier National Park. If the road is passable, then it is just a gorgeous brush-fight for 8 clicks to Butters Lake. Might be prudent to have either two cars or bikes to get out in case the break-line loving porcupines eat you car. Satellite phone country for sure. And chicken wire to encircle your vehicle.

For those who prefer to ski, the Selkirk half of the Bugaboo to Rogers Pass route has been used. This approach does not require dropping into the forests of the Duncan River Trench. It does require several days to reach a base camp for Mount Butters from Rogers Pass.



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