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Areas in Old Baldy

Air Jamaica Wall 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Alley, The 1 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Black Forest Wall 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Central Pinnacle 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Entropy Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Labour Pains Ledge 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Scimitar Pinnacle 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
South Pinnacle 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 1,204 ft
GPS: 44.393, -80.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 6,872 total · 78/month
Shared By: MikePenney on Aug 15, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: Permit Required Details

Description

Located in Beaver Valley, perched high above the small town of Kimberly.

Old Baldy is one of the best sport-climbing areas south of the Bruce Peninsula; there is a good selection of bolted routes on sound rock, and there are fine views across the Beaver Valley. The cliff receives plenty of afternoon sunshine, making it climbable even fairly early in the season.

When climbing at Old Baldy, please do not use the trees at the top of the crag as belays or rappel anchors. These trees are mostly old-growth cedars and are an irreplacable part of our environmental heritage. All climbs have been equipped with bolt anchors. The anchors, however, are not accessible from the top of the cliff, which means that someone in your party has to be able to lead your route.

This is a lead climbing area, NOT a top roping area.

Getting There

From Kimberly, take your first right (dirt road) as you exit town. This road is steep and relatively unmaintained. Follow to the top of the hill. Turn right when the road splits. Park against the tree line. Hike the Bruce trail keeping right along the cliff edge until the trail descends down to the base of the cliff band.

60 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Laplacian Ballroom
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Laplacian Ballroom Labour Pains Ledge
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
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Photos

I believe the permit is no more you do need to pay 6 dollars to park for the day (or a seasonal fee) through an online or phone system there.

Also seemed to be a lot less buggy than the other crags in June. Jun 4, 2018
Cheddar  
You sign a waiver to climb when you pay online for parking. They will ask for a plate # and your information. Jun 18, 2018

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