Elevation: 1,204 ft
GPS: 44.393, -80.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,565 total · 297/month
Shared By: MikePenney Penney on Aug 15, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone
Access Issue: Permit Required Details

Description

Located in Beaver Valley, perched high above the small town of Kimberly.

Old Baldy is one of the best sport-climbing areas south of the Bruce Peninsula; there is a good selection of bolted routes on sound rock, and there are fine views across the Beaver Valley. The cliff receives plenty of afternoon sunshine, making it climbable even fairly early in the season.

When climbing at Old Baldy, please do not use the trees at the top of the crag as belays or rappel anchors. These trees are mostly old-growth cedars and are an irreplacable part of our environmental heritage. All climbs have been equipped with bolt anchors. The anchors, however, are not accessible from the top of the cliff, which means that someone in your party has to be able to lead your route.

This is a lead climbing area, NOT a top roping area.

Getting There

From Kimberly, take your first right (dirt road) as you exit town. This road is steep and relatively unmaintained. Follow to the top of the hill. Turn right when the road splits. Park against the tree line. Hike the Bruce trail keeping right along the cliff edge until the trail descends down to the base of the cliff band.

62 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Return of the Jingoid
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Blood n Valour
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
Gridlock
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Split Leggings
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Where's Waldo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Tiny Bubbles
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Laplacian Ballroom
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Mahseeve Cool
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Lougins Go to the Ballet
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Renaissance Man
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Bear on a Wire
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
French Revolution
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Labour Pains
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 6
Elixir
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 3
Christina's World
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Return of the Jingoid Alley
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Blood n Valour S Pinnacle
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Gridlock Alley
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Split Leggings Alley
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Where's Waldo Entropy Wall
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tiny Bubbles S Pinnacle
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Laplacian Ballroom Labour Pains Ledge
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mahseeve Cool Air Jamaica Wall
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Lougins Go to the Ballet S Pinnacle
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Renaissance Man Air Jamaica Wall
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bear on a Wire Central Pinnacle
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
French Revolution Black Forest Wall
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Labour Pains Labour Pains Ledge
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Elixir Central Pinnacle
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Christina's World S Pinnacle
 3
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Old Baldy »

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