Elevation: 1,204 ft
GPS: 44.393, -80.522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,308 total · 231/month
Shared By: MikePenney Penney on Aug 15, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone
Access Issue: Permit Required Details

Description

Located in Beaver Valley, perched high above the small town of Kimberly.

Old Baldy is one of the best sport-climbing areas south of the Bruce Peninsula; there is a good selection of bolted routes on sound rock, and there are fine views across the Beaver Valley. The cliff receives plenty of afternoon sunshine, making it climbable even fairly early in the season.

When climbing at Old Baldy, please do not use the trees at the top of the crag as belays or rappel anchors. These trees are mostly old-growth cedars and are an irreplacable part of our environmental heritage. All climbs have been equipped with bolt anchors. The anchors, however, are not accessible from the top of the cliff, which means that someone in your party has to be able to lead your route.

This is a lead climbing area, NOT a top roping area.

Getting There

From Kimberly, take your first right (dirt road) as you exit town. This road is steep and relatively unmaintained. Follow to the top of the hill. Turn right when the road splits. Park against the tree line. Hike the Bruce trail keeping right along the cliff edge until the trail descends down to the base of the cliff band.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Return of the Jingoid
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Blood n Valour
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Gridlock
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Wild Dogs
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Pins & Needles
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Split Leggings
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Where's Waldo
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Tiny Bubbles
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Laplacian Ballroom
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Mahseeve Cool
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Crystalline
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
Bear on a Wire
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
A Shot Across the Bow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
Labour Pains
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 3
Air Jamaica
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Return of the Jingoid Alley
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Blood n Valour S Pinnacle
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Gridlock Alley
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Wild Dogs Scimitar Pinnacle
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pins & Needles Alley
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Split Leggings Alley
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Where's Waldo Entropy Wall
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Tiny Bubbles S Pinnacle
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Laplacian Ballroom Labour Pains Ledge
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Mahseeve Cool Air Jamaica Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crystalline Labour Pains Ledge
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bear on a Wire Central Pinnacle
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
A Shot Across the Bow Central Pinnacle
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Labour Pains Labour Pains Ledge
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Air Jamaica Air Jamaica Wall
 3
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Old Baldy »

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