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Elevation: 1,204 ft 367 m
GPS: 44.39284, -80.52167
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,152 total · 282/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Aug 15, 2011
Admins: Dave Rone, Scott Graham
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Description Suggest change

Located in Beaver Valley, perched high above the small town of Kimberly.

Old Baldy is one of the best sport-climbing areas south of the Bruce Peninsula; there is a good selection of bolted routes on sound rock, and there are fine views across the Beaver Valley. The cliff receives plenty of afternoon sunshine, making it climbable even fairly early in the season.

When climbing at Old Baldy, please do not use the trees at the top of the crag as belays or rappel anchors. These trees are mostly old-growth cedars and are an irreplacable part of our environmental heritage. All climbs have been equipped with bolt anchors. The anchors, however, are not accessible from the top of the cliff, which means that someone in your party has to be able to lead your route.

This is a lead climbing area, NOT a top roping area.

Getting There Suggest change

From Kimberly, take your first right (dirt road) as you exit town. This road is steep and relatively unmaintained. Follow to the top of the hill. Turn right when the road splits. Park against the tree line. Hike the Bruce trail keeping right along the cliff edge until the trail descends down to the base of the cliff band.

71 Total Climbs

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Location: Old Baldy Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
● Return of the Jingoid
Sport
Alley
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
● Who's This Change Guy
Sport
Alley
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
● Blood n Valour
Sport
S Pinnacle
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
● Gridlock
Sport
Alley
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
● Split Leggings
Sport
Alley
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
● Where's Waldo
Sport
Entropy Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
● Laplacian Ballroom
Sport
Labour Pains Ledge
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
● Tiny Bubbles
Sport
S Pinnacle
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
● Mahseeve Cool
Sport
Air Jamaica Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 7
● Lougins Go to the Ballet
Sport
S Pinnacle
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
● Renaissance Man
Sport
Air Jamaica Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
● Bear on a Wire
Sport
Central Pinnacle
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
● French Revolution
Sport
Black Forest Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
● Labour Pains
Sport
Labour Pains Ledge
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
● Christina's World
Sport
S Pinnacle
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Return of the Jingoid Alley
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Who's This Change Guy Alley
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Blood n Valour S Pinnacle
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Gridlock Alley
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Split Leggings Alley
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Where's Waldo Entropy Wall
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Laplacian Ballroom Labour Pains Ledge
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Tiny Bubbles S Pinnacle
 19
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Mahseeve Cool Air Jamaica Wall
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Lougins Go to the Ballet S Pinnacle
 7
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● Renaissance Man Air Jamaica Wall
 4
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● Bear on a Wire Central Pinnacle
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
● French Revolution Black Forest Wall
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Labour Pains Labour Pains Ledge
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
● Christina's World S Pinnacle
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Old Baldy »

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Photos

Tiny Bubbles
Tiny Bubbles
 4
Baldy on a beauty fall day.
Baldy on a beauty fall day.
 1

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