Fickle Finger of Fate Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 6,718 ft | 2,048 m |
GPS: |
44.0976, -107.29321 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 4,659 total · 29/month | |
Shared By: | FCJohn on Jul 24, 2011 | |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
If you've climbed at Circus Wall then you've wondered what's up with that amazing looking pillar of rock across the drainage. The FFF is one of the more unique areas of Ten Sleep Canyon. The climbing is very unique and unlike anything in the rest of the canyon. The holds are smooth, flat, slopey, pinchy and very reminiscent of the sandstone climbing that can be found in Red Rocks. This is a perfect morning area if you're planning on hitting Dry Wall in the afternoon or looking to avoid the crowds. A thin and fine layer of dust coats almost of the holds here so brush 'em off and get to sendin'!
Due to the secluded and unique geography of the pillar, this area gets all day shade with the exception of +/1 one hour of direct overhead sun at high noon.
Due to the secluded and unique geography of the pillar, this area gets all day shade with the exception of +/1 one hour of direct overhead sun at high noon.
Getting There
Park at pull off #4 and approach toward dry wall. You'll skirt the far right (climbers right) of dry wall and continue up hill for another 30 minutes. Wear long pants as there are a good amount of thorny/prickly bushes. Once you can see the obvious Finger of Rock, the follow the faint trail up the far right side of the drainage, hugging the wall. Approach the finger counter clockwise around the long way!
Car to base of routes takes 45 minutes.
Car to base of routes takes 45 minutes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Fickle Finger of Fate
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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