All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Johnson Canyon > Canyon Entrance Routes

Split Boulder Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Split Boulder

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bald Dog S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Chute the Moon S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Dirty Pinch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

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Elevation:	3,000 ft	914 m
GPS:	34.08767, -116.15385 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,847 total · 21/month
Shared By:	C Miller on May 17, 2011 · Updates
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This large dark-colored boulder has over the ages cracked wide open and is home to three known routes including - Chute the Moon (5.6) a fun slab route up nice dark rock inside the split and the Dirty Pinch (5.11a) a steeper affair up the outer side of the boulder.

Getting There

Hike south from the vicinity of the Short Wall where you'll run into a major wash issuing from Johnson Canyon. Stay high and to the right on the approach aiming for the obvious large Split Boulder which comes into view midway along the approach.