GPS: 18.75, 99.23 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 8,901 total · 76/month
Shared By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 16, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon
Access Issue: Crazy Horse Closed to Climbing Details

Description

The latest area to be developed at Crazy Horse Buttress

Due to the shape of the crag, there will always be a good variety of climbs in the shade whatever the season or time of day. There are also a few sections which are steep enough to provide climbing in wet weather as well. Meaning whatever the weather, something will always be climbable.

The rock is mixture of orange and white limestone. It tends to be a little friable and loose in places, meaning several holds are not above suspicion. However, this only serves to add a little spice rather than detracts from the over-all quality of the climbing as most of the rock is solid.

The area also provides some of the most over hanging routes at Crazy Horse, both in the short and sharp variety and long and sustained.

All the routes are equipped with Titanium glue-in bolts and lower offs/carabiners. The area is generously and safely bolted.

Highlights of the crag include 'Ruam Jai (Community)'a stellar 2 pitch 5.10c. The first pitch contains some pumpy 3d climbing on tufas, stalactites and features before leading into an exposed mantle to the belay ledge. The second pitch contains some great moves, solid and sustained to the anchor where you get some of the best views of the Mae On valley stretching out behind you.

While there is climbing from 5.9 to 5.12 the area will truly delight and challenge the 5.11 climber.

Getting There

The crag takes around 20 minutes to access from the crag carpark by foot. Take the path opposite the toilet block that leads past the giant gold Buddha statue. Follow this track till the crag. Approach is doable in your 'extreme adventure' flip-flops but a pair of sensible shoes is the way to go.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Heart Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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