GPS: 18.75, 99.23 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Thailand Climbing on Mar 16, 2011
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball
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Access Issue: Crazy Horse Closed to Climbing Details

Description

The latest area to be developed at Crazy Horse Buttress

Due to the shape of the crag, there will always be a good variety of climbs in the shade whatever the season or time of day. There are also a few sections which are steep enough to provide climbing in wet weather as well. Meaning whatever the weather, something will always be climbable.

The rock is mixture of orange and white limestone. It tends to be a little friable and loose in places, meaning several holds are not above suspicion. However, this only serves to add a little spice rather than detracts from the over-all quality of the climbing as most of the rock is solid.

The area also provides some of the most over hanging routes at Crazy Horse, both in the short and sharp variety and long and sustained.

All the routes are equipped with Titanium glue-in bolts and lower offs/carabiners. The area is generously and safely bolted.

Highlights of the crag include 'Ruam Jai (Community)'a stellar 2 pitch 5.10c. The first pitch contains some pumpy 3d climbing on tufas, stalactites and features before leading into an exposed mantle to the belay ledge. The second pitch contains some great moves, solid and sustained to the anchor where you get some of the best views of the Mae On valley stretching out behind you.

While there is climbing from 5.9 to 5.12 the area will truly delight and challenge the 5.11 climber.

Getting There

The crag takes around 20 minutes to access from the crag carpark by foot. Take the path opposite the toilet block that leads past the giant gold Buddha statue. Follow this track till the crag. Approach is doable in your 'extreme adventure' flip-flops but a pair of sensible shoes is the way to go.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Heart Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Heart Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Jai Glah Reu Blao (Are You Coura…
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jai Glah Reu Blao (Are You…
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Heart Wall »

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Photos

Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
I just got back from Chiang Mai, and before spending a week here was at the Railey and Tonsai Beach. Though Tonsai and other beach crags have the wonderful addition of their location coupled with good climbing, I found that the crowds and over all attitude of climbers there to majorly detract from the climbing. Chiang Mai is the opposite of this. What it lacks in beaches it gains with good people and a fun location. I found the Heart wall to be my favorite and spent two days there doing the majority of all the climbs there. Good stuff! Thanks for all the hard work in properly and sustainable bolting there! Soo much work! Jan 16, 2012
Nick Brennan
Concord, NH
Nick Brennan   Concord, NH
Regarding new development on the left side of heart wall... There are photo topos at the climbing shop for these climbs. I didn't find that many of them were worth doing even as warm-ups. There is one new 6b near the left side of heart wall proper that was fun, its on black rock and involves lateral moves to the right on diagonal seams and cracks.

The grades on the photo topo are all over the place. Buyer beware. We found 6a+ climbs that were vastly easier than the neighboring 5c climbing. (no we weren't mistaken about which route we were on).

Shady for most of the day! Dec 29, 2015
Andy Riley
Yangon, MM
Andy Riley   Yangon, MM  
Respectfully disagree about the quality of the new routes. Two of the 5.11s to the far left were my favorite at Crazy Horse. Also, the utility of the Heart Wall page would be greatly improved if the routes were listed in order from left to right with expanded descriptions and photos. Jan 5, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Andrew, please send me a message with a listing of the routes in order and I will edit the page. Jan 6, 2016
Danny Paradorn
Thailand & SF Bay Area
Danny Paradorn   Thailand & SF Bay Area
There are now about 36 routes at Heart Wall, according to the Crazy Horse iOS app. Many of the new ones are on the very far left. May 26, 2016