Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 98 total · 3/month
Shared By: Danny Paradorn on Jun 21, 2016
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Crazy Horse Closed to Climbing Details

Description

Can start at bottom of boulder and clip the 3 glue-in hangars, or scramble up the left side of boulder and start at the 4th bolt.

Continue up ample holds and nice movement to some small jail bars (there are sometimes wax bees here, but they are very tiny and do not sting or bother you; if you see bigger bees/wasps (occassionally), avoid.)

Follow slightly rightward bolts up to wide off-width crack with juggy laybacks. Last couple of meters above crack leaves less selection of hand holds to gain anchors.

This is a good warm up route with great movement.

Location

On the far far left side of Heart Wall (20-25m past the downclimbing of the ledge with the knotted assist-rope hanging down).

You will see a belay anchor at the bottom of a big boulder with 3 glue-ins (and one glue-in on the left side of boulder for a different climb).

Look up, if you see a big off-width crack 3/4 of the way up, you're at the right place :)

Protection

15 bolts. If you don't have enough draws, can scramble up the left side of boulder and clip from the 4th bolt, standing ledge.

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