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Routes in Heart Wall

Blaek Jai (Wondering) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Coo Jai (Twin Heart) S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dee Jai Ti Dai Geud (It's Great to be Alive) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dok Jai (Surprised) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dtang Jai (Determined) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dtatsin Jai (Decide) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Duang Jai (Flame Heart) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gam Lang Jai (Spirit, Morale) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hua Jai Wai (Heart Attack) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jai Glah Reu Blao (Are You Courageous) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jai Yen Yen (Patience) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jai rawn (Hot Headed) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Kra Ten Kong Hua Jai (Heartbeat) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mun Jai (Confident) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pak Jai (Rest) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Peuan Jai Lai (My Friend is Mean) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prathup Jai (Impressed) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ruam Jai (Community) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sat Jai (Satisfied) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Suu Sud Jai (Put your heart into it) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tang Jai (Intentions) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 57 total, 3/month
Shared By: Danny Paradorn on Jun 21, 2016
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Can start at bottom of boulder and clip the 3 glue-in hangars, or scramble up the left side of boulder and start at the 4th bolt.

Continue up ample holds and nice movement to some small jail bars (there are sometimes wax bees here, but they are very tiny and do not sting or bother you; if you see bigger bees/wasps (occassionally), avoid.)

Follow slightly rightward bolts up to wide off-width crack with juggy laybacks. Last couple of meters above crack leaves less selection of hand holds to gain anchors.

This is a good warm up route with great movement.

Location

On the far far left side of Heart Wall (20-25m past the downclimbing of the ledge with the knotted assist-rope hanging down).

You will see a belay anchor at the bottom of a big boulder with 3 glue-ins (and one glue-in on the left side of boulder for a different climb).

Look up, if you see a big off-width crack 3/4 of the way up, you're at the right place :)

Protection

15 bolts. If you don't have enough draws, can scramble up the left side of boulder and clip from the 4th bolt, standing ledge.

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