Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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|Shared By:||Mike Snyder on Mar 7, 2011 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
New crag in 2010. Part of the main wall on the North side of the road above the Switchback (upper Canyon). Half a mile down the cliff from Slavery and 300 yards or so down from Metropolis. Currently (2023), 40 routes with room for a few more. 14 routes in the John Henry Grotto at the far left, 10 routes in Coolsville area, 9 on the Cigar, 2 on the Nugget, and 5 at Vulvus Godzillicus. Sunny in the morning and shady in the afternoon. The Cigar is a free-standing pillar with routes on the inside, facing the cliff, so it is shady all day.
The mileage listed is zeroed where the old road and new road split (Hwy 16 and 435). Please park nose or rear in when parking, especially in small lots.
Mileage: 6.5 miles
Crags accessed: Lower Mondo Beyondo
Downtown/Metropolis/Antarctica/Frat Boys/World Domination
Parking lot side of road: Right, large lot
Approach trail: Trail uphill at right end of lot. Head left at the split, arrive just left of the Cigar
Approach time: 15 minutes
Classic Climbing Routes at Downtown
Days w Precip