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Routes in Coolsville
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Ascot Aura S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Little Smokey Goes Downtown S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Smokey Goes Downtown and Gets Flakey S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mellow Slide Into Coolsville S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Red Neck Superhero S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Robot Steamroller S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Sleep Reaction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stick It Into Coolsville S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Super 8 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Vulcan Jessery S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Snyder |
| Page Views: | 893 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Snyder on Jul 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Step off the small boulder onto the slab to reach the crack system. Follow this up until you can grab the edge of the giant flake. Climb up into a nook below the steeper section for a nice no hands rest. Edges lead to good pockets as you work up the bulge. One pocket may stymy you, it faces the wrong way and downward. Solve that and a big reach up high guards the redpoint.
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