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Routes in Central Portion

Alpin Lily’s Masterpiece T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A2 R
Brigitte S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carmen, the Gypsy Girl S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Francesca'’s Face TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Isabel'’s Eyes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Julia's Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Julia’s Arête T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petra’s Preference T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Song of Sabine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
Valgedur'’s Tooth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

Below the scramble to reach the Far Left area, the trail drops and rounds a corner to the overhanging juggy, chalky start of Valgedur’s Tooth. Continuing right and dry all year, is the vertical start of Isabel’s Eyes, then the scooped-dihedral start to Alpin Lily’s Masterpiece. Around the corner is the flake start of Song of Sabine. These climbs join the continuing traverse of Julia Raye'’s Journey and above looms a huge roof-dihedral system.

Further right, the trail ascends to the top of the big ledge of crumbly coal-like rock and the short, but clean face and corner systems of Petra’s Preference and Carmen the Gypsy Girl. This is also where Julia Raye’s Journey either ends or begins. Right of this is the face/corner system of Francesca’s Face and further right, the amazing Julia’s Arête. Around the other side of this sharp arête lie the interesting routes of the Far Right area.

Getting There

Keep walking along the base and around the corner.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Central Portion

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Julia’s Arête
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Julia's Arête
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Julia’s Arête 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Sport
Julia's Arête 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
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