Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay
Page Views: 308 total · 3/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 30, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Overhanging base, reach for jugs and more holds and other edges and then slopers to gain left-facing corner and on to the coal-like ledge. Turn the roof (crux) past 3 bolts over juggy fins to join Julia Raye’s Journey. Rock quality dictated bolt location on the roof, so have an attentive belayer, hence the PG rating as a fall at the roof w/ too much slack, might send the climber into the coal ledge. From the stance above the roof, traverse left and then up on great holds on blunt arête. More dynamic moves up to top lead just above big roof to ledge and anchor.

Protection

Eleven bolts, #3.5 cam, small wired stopper. Hooks are useful on the roof if not leading .10c-.10d. Long-ish slings for traverse past 5th/6th bolts.

Photos