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Routes in Central Portion

Alpin Lily’s Masterpiece T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c A2 R
Brigitte S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Carmen, the Gypsy Girl S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Francesca'’s Face TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Isabel'’s Eyes T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Julia's Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Julia’s Arête T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Petra’s Preference T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Song of Sabine T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
Valgedur'’s Tooth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Matthias Holladay
Page Views: 76 total, 1/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Nov 30, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Overhanging base, reach for jugs and more holds and other edges and then slopers to gain left-facing corner and on to the coal-like ledge. Turn the roof (crux) past 3 bolts over juggy fins to join Julia Raye’s Journey. Rock quality dictated bolt location on the roof, so have an attentive belayer, hence the PG rating as a fall at the roof w/ too much slack, might send the climber into the coal ledge. From the stance above the roof, traverse left and then up on great holds on blunt arête. More dynamic moves up to top lead just above big roof to ledge and anchor.

Protection

Eleven bolts, #3.5 cam, small wired stopper. Hooks are useful on the roof if not leading .10c-.10d. Long-ish slings for traverse past 5th/6th bolts.

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