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White Rocks Routes Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in White Rocks Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	Climber Sensitivity Training Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dogs of War TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Force Ten TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Force Ten - Direct Finish TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gap of Rohan T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Green Thumb TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Hubble TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lucifer TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Luciifer Direct TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Phasers on Stun T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Sherpa Connection, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Sugar & Spice T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Thumbthing Else TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Where Eagles Dare TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	822 ft	251 m
GPS:	39.28417, -77.39831 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	21,865 total · 114/month
Shared By:	Chris Blanchard on Sep 14, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Frances Fierst, C S Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Private Land-gate closed and locked by nightfall. Details

Sugarloaf is a privately owned recreation area. The park is closed at night and the gate is locked. Allow enough time to pack, hike, and drive out the oneway road to the gate before it is locked.

Description

This area offers stronger climbers with a bit more challenging climbs than the main crags. North facing crag and can sometimes receive a strong bite of wind if climbing the near winter season.

Getting There

Take Comus Road to the intersection in Stronghold with the Sugarloaf Mountain entrance on right. Instead of turning right into the park (as for the main climbing areas), continue straight ahead on Comus Road a short distance to an intersection with Mount Ephraim Road. Turn right and take Mount Ephraim Road about 2 miles to a small pull-off (only holds two cars) on the right, at the trailhead for North Peaks Trail (towards White Rocks NOT to West View Parking). Follow a blue-blazed trail about 15 minutes uphill to an overlook on the left. Go to North end of the rocks. This overlook is the top of White Rocks.

History

Volume 34, Number 2 (February 1979) of Up Rope (PATC-MS) indicates the following as an earliest known description

two areas with good climbing potential, which, I believe, are unknown and untried by the rock climbing community. One of them is about to be "discovered!' because of the publication of a map in the October, 1978, Potomac Appalachian describing the new Northern Peaks Trail blazed by Bill and Kim Hutchinson. It is identified as White Rocks on that map and lies perhaps a 15-minute steady climb off Mt. Ephraim Road, between Stronghold and Park Mills. White Rocks is secure quartzite, like the rest of Sugarloaf, and has a superb view. There is a vertical face with several possible routes and a feeling of exposure, good top belay positions, and (north just a bit) what is probably the best practice chimney in these parts. It well warrents a visit from a small exploring group.
Alfred M. Webb