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Routes in Split Mountain

East Maze T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
St Jeans Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
Elevation: 14,058 ft
GPS: 37.021, -118.422 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,886 total, 43/month
Shared By: Davi Rivas on Aug 3, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Split Mountain, like some of the other 14ers, can be seen from the 395. Aptly named, Split Mtn has a layered look to it with some darker, older sedimentary rock stacked on top newer, lighter colored ingnious rock. Split Mtn is also "split" by deep couloirs on its east face. In fact the Central Coulior splits the mountains northern and southern summits.

Getting There

See Porcella/Burns for driving directions to the Red Mountain Creek trailhead from Big Pine and the 395. The trail DOSE NOT start in Red Mountain Creek but rather, about 1/8 a mile to the north. From the trailhead follow the path as it windes and switches up the hill until the trail turns sharply to the west. At this point you a a few hundred feet above Red Mountain Creek. Continue on the trail, which is kind of crappy allt he way back to Red Lake and the base of Split Mtn.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Split Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X
St Jeans Couloir
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
St Jeans Couloir 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b X Trad, Alpine
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It's a little vague from some guidebooks on how to get to the east side trailhead for Split and Red Lake. Having roamed around via mountain bike on the 4x4 roads in the foothills 14 June 2015, the photo below should assist in getting there most efficiently from the Tinemaha campground.

Couple of notes:
1. I did find that some of the forest service roads on the caltopo either don't exist anymore, or trespass on the Tinemaha Ranch property - resident was none too pleased to see a visitor, so avoid deviations from the map below.
2. The road - for being labeled 4wd - was actually quite a bit more tame than expected - much more civil than the approach road to mountain light wall/Humphreys. Still not the best for a lower clearance vehicle, but seemed passable for a vehicle with decent clearance
3. The trailhead is as indicated on the map if you're headed to Red Lake. Start north of where the actual trailhead sign is. If you're looking at the trailhead sign, turn around and follow the road north and NNW and a trail starts where the road ends.
4. The trail winds its way up the first flank and is distinguishable, albeit not as explicit as the major trails in the Sierra, and becomes better later on. Follow the topo, and it will not lead you astray. Trail was actually in pretty good condition given the reports of delinquent maintenance for over a decade now. Plenty of overgrowth, so pants are advised.

Jun 18, 2015

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